by
The Natural Haven
Is protective styling a dirty word? I think that there are some women who think of protective styles as boring and even unattractive. There are a second set of women who regard protective styles as a necessarily evil on the way to longer hair. There is the third set who regard protective styles as quick and low maintenance.
No matter where you stand, I think that protective styling has its benefits and can work for you if you let it.
In order for a protective style to be effective in retaining length  it has to
Naturals will often class protective styles into LOW manipulation or NO manipulation styles. Low manipulation styles are those that will require some regular daily handling. Examples include braid or twist outs which are rebraided or retwisted at night. Buns and tucked in styles (french rolls, cinnabuns etc) where hair is free but kept tucked away and off the shoulders are also low manipulation styles.
No manipulation styles are those where free strands of hair are not handled. Examples include twists, braids , cornrows, flat twists, sew in weaves and wigs where hair is braided or twisted underneath and does not require daily combing.
Without any combing (finger or actual comb) of free strands, the no manipulation styles are the most effective in terms of eliminating breakage, knotting and tangling. Low manipulation styles may result in some breakage, knotting and tangling but when performed correctly this damage should be reduced and dependant on hair type, eliminated.
The big DON’T is never to pull hair too tight when styling it in any manner (buns, twists or braids). This can result in breakage and traction alopecia around the hairline.
The second big DON’T is micro braids and twists. These can look very beautiful but are more often than not terrible for the hairline. If you or your hairdresser has sufficient experience in installing and taking down micros, they are perfectly fine. The big risk is usually at the take down stage where if you have insufficient skill or patience you may end up breaking a lot of the length that you were attempting to retain.
54 Responses
A little story for people who are afraid to try protective styling. TL:DR; Thought my hair would hate it, but it loves it.
I was very hesitant to try protective styling because of people who said it doesn’t work or had bad experiences, and my hair doesn’t like product buildup, so I thought it wouldn’t be for me. I kept my TWA for about 8 months, but as it started getting colder, I started having a harder time keeping my (very dry) hair moisturized, so I decided to try it. My first attempt was two-strand twists, which were pretty easy to do, but I didn’t like how my hair looked after I slept on them.
Second was two-strand twists with marley hair & the LOC method. Unlike my first attempt with two-strand twists without extensions, I had an awful time trying to do them, and after a few days, the parts where my hair was twisted around the extension unraveled. I removed them after a week because I was sick of wearing hats, and I hadn’t been able to wash or moisturize at all because I was afraid of manipulating the hair.
Anyway, when I took them out, my hair felt just as gloriously moisturized as it had when I put the twists in. I washed and combed out my hair as normal, and about half the usual amount came out. My hair has never seemed so happy in my life. It’s a shame that my hair liked the braids so much but I can’t do them (going to a salon is too expensive, and they’ll probably make them too tight…)
Since yesterday, I’m trying cornrows under a lace-front wig until my unit arrives from Fingercomber.
Wearing no manipulation styles will NOT elimnate tangling. This is untrue. Your hair will continue to shed regardless if you comb it or not and those hairs can tangle with the rest of your hair. That’s why if left too long your hair may loc. My hair doesn’like no manipulation styles so I stick to low so that I am removing shed hairs more often.
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In all actuality, being natural or going natural does seem more complicated today due to all the long lists of do’s and don’ts however; there really isn’t any excuse for a person to not experience being natural or find a suitable method to work for them. Why, because there are way too many products on the market designed perfectly for textured hair. In the 60’s and 70’s there weren’t that many products designed for natural black hair, but today the amount of hair products available on the market are endless. My opinion is that every natural needs to find a regimen that works for them and products that work for their hair. Once you find products and a healthy regimen that is helping your hair retain length, STICK WITH IT AND DON’T DEVIATE FROM IT. LEARN YOUR HAIR AND REMEMBER YOU ARE THE BEST EXPERT ON YOUR HAIR, DON’T LET ANY PERSON TELL YOU DIFFERENTLY.
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Wigs can actually stunt hair growth. Not a fan of extenstions and weaves that can pull on the scalp. I believe both wigs and weaves don’t allow the scalp to breathe properly, and while hair will grow with them. It will grow better without them. I certainly wouldn’t recommend them beyond the beauty of their style, not as a means for healthy hair. Too often those who have them start getting lax in taking care of the hair.
Frankly, I don’t believe protective styles are necessary for healthy natural hair. Today natural hair care seems more complicated than necessary. I grew up in the ’70’s. Our afros were beautiful and healthy. We didn’t use cremes, gels and puddings and 1001 different products on our hair. We used 4 thing; Regular trims, Sta Sof Fro Comb Out spray, a good pick, and Ultra Sheen oil spray. Our afros were fully “out” and beautiful. Sta Sof Fro will moisturize, soften and condition even the curliest hair that appears super kinky. It eliminates breakage due to dryness and helps minimize shedding and shrinkage. It’s the best detangler.
I don’t believe in hair typing either. I think it’s polarizing. We need to know our hair is dry and the curlier it is, the dryer it is. We need to understand the importance of keeping it moisturized. Sta Sof Fro will take care of maintenance.
I am Protective Style Resistant! Its by choice because right now I hate protective styling. I say “right now” because I hope that this is a temporary hate. I’m on a protective style challenge to see if it causes my hair to grow. My hair has always been short, never, ever long. If this protective styling grows my hair, I will have to find a way to start liking it.
(here’s my youtube vid of the challenge)
I’m soooo ready to take this style out and see my results.
[img]https://bglh-marketplace.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/Protectivestylebraidsday1of30014.jpg[/img]
Never really occurred to me to leave a comment on the designboom weblog.. i mean sure, i read you guys everyday, but the posts i find interesting i fave or bookmark or share the url to others, rather than clicking the comment link.
I love this post!! I have found that twisting with Bantu Knots work the best for me during the fall and wintwr months. I basically do it in six large sections, take it down and go!! It last for about seven to eight days. I will include a picture to share, and thanks for sharing your tips ladies.
[img]https://bglh-marketplace.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/IMAG0612.jpg[/img]
That’s rlealy thinking at a high level
I’ve tried a variety of protective styles, but for the past two years, twists are my go-to style. I don’t worry about styling them or anything. I just dc, wash, cond and twist once a week. Last year, I gained a foot in length through this method. My twists might not look pretty, but they serve my purpose. The first photo is post-twisting in Spring 2011. The second photo is pre-twisting in the Fall 2010.
[img]https://bglh-marketplace.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/afro2.jpg[/img]
[img]https://bglh-marketplace.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/fall2011004.jpg[/img]
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Wow. Now that makes me wanna wear twists everyday. I didn’t get that kind of growth at all but I’m still happy with my 8.5-10 inches in 2 years. Hopefully I can have your kind of retention this year. You and your hair look awesome.
I did protective styling last week and I believe my hair worked well with it. I did kinda look like a kid (which I didn’t quie like) but anything to help retain length. I usually do a french roll type of protective style and last week was the longest that I kept it in. I think I redid the french roll 3 times during the week for a fresh look. As someone commented, I do love my hair out so sometimes it could be a challenge to do the french roll type of protective style. With my “no manipulation” protective styling, I do twists/twist-outs. Those help to really retain moisture which I absolutely LOVE.
I enjoyed this article, but I am having trouble wrapping my head around the concept of leaving twists in for 2-4 weeks while continuing to wash and condition them. I guess it’s a “don’t knock it until you’ve tried it” type of situation, but I just envision my hair being a frizzy, fuzzy mess. I also have 2-3 different hair types on my head; the crown area is quite loose and I know the twists would come out when I washed them, unless I made them super tiny or somehow secured the ends. Frustrating. Any suggestions!
Yeah, I’ve tried it and anything longer than a week just doesn’t work for me. Different strokes…
It’s really a great and useful piece of info. I am glad that you shared this helpful info with us. Please stay us up to date like this. Thank you for sharing.
How do you keep your hair completely moisturized while tucked away without taking it down and re-styling every couple of days?
You take it down and moisturize it whenever its dry. Things like braids and twists you don’t have to take out. You can undo a ponytail or bun at anytime to moisturize.
I have short natural hair…and I am trying to get my hair to that protective style length. Is there anything I can do to help it along besides coconut oil and a shae butter mixture?
hey anna i hope this message finds you. I had short hair in january 2012. But I kept doing mini twists because I knew it would help. It sure did, I have completed my first year of being natural and to be honest I have compared my hair to other naturals with similar textures who did not do protective styling and I see that in just one year I have maintained longer length. Yes I know there are exceptions like genetics or environmental factors. But twists and braids make a big difference they allow you to reduce split ends so you would only need to trim twice the most and you can deep condition and give scalp message easily.
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Tip 1: If using mini twist as a protective style do not borrow from sections make sure both sides/section are even before u begin twisting
Tip 2: Hair pins if your going to use hair pins/bobby pins I don’t think you should sleep in it. If you do make sure it is not adding tension to your hair. I notice when I use hair pins or bobby pins the area that I had it in is a little sore when I take out the pins. So now I try to make sure to place them somewhat away from my scalp. (I hope that makes sense..lol)
Protective styling is tricky. Cause at times one may believe they are protective styling however they are selective styling. Its my belief that protective styling is a low maintenance, minimal manipulation, ends protecting method. As you have given in your details.
What helps me is that my mind in the natural extravaganza is so focused on maintaining and retaining healthy hair. I’m not focus on having long hair b/c I know it will come automatically with What.. Healthy hair maintenance which includes methods like what….Protective styling!
Protective styling is not for everyone but once you find that one style you love, you become completely entrenched into the protective styling world. I bet you will start finding yourself researching and testing out new ways to rock your hair with protective styling as your goal. ..Play with your hair, find that style that makes ppl stare, and just build from there. Like I say on Olub20 YouTube page Play with it and run with it.
[img]https://bglh-marketplace.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/Minitwistout.jpg[/img]
Staple Protective style Mini twist:
This pic is my hair after taking out 3wks maintained mini twist (fav protective style) I usually just do my wash routine when I take down my mini twist but I decided to rock this mini-twist out for about seven more days. So this pic was on the last day. Because the mini twist were very set I didn’t have to do anything to my hair at night except moisturize do one big twist and throw on my satin buddy! Then shake out the front in the morning. The back is in a headband updo (fav and easiest way for me to do a quick updo).
Great Great Great peice of advice sis with regard to borrowing from other sections… Could prove disastrous to say the least… I am 48wks post and stretching til late august 2012… Twisting my own hair is my saving grace right now… My twist are COLLOSAL (2.5 by 2.5 perimeter)at best lol…
I used to detest protective styling because I thought all the styles were ugly. I dreaded putting my hair away but there are some styles that I have gotten some good feedback for. I have been on a protective style challenge for the last 8-9 months along with my blog followers and youtube subbies. I have gotten more length than I could have gotten without it I’m certain. My hair is the kind that breaks from being out so long term twist-outs will never do. Low manipulation styles are more my speed with just putting in braids or twists and being able to change styles as I please. My favorite low manipulation style to date were my kinky twists. I wore them almost 2 months but I was dying to take them out by then. I can’t go that long without HIH taking over. Lol.
[img]https://bglh-marketplace.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/KinkyTwists-1.jpg[/img]
I love this. Is this your own hair or did you use extensions?
Why thank you. I used Marley braid hair to do this but it doesn’t even matter. The hair straightens out once you dip it into hot water anyway so you could just use any braid hair.
Thanks for the response Aisa 🙂
Aisa! you’re here too!? it’s me stoical4harmony on naturalsunshine. We recently became friends on that site.
Yep. I love this site. Lol. Fancy meeting you here Amanda.
I often protective style–via sock buns and cinnabuns done on moisturized, stretched hair–for as much as a week at a time. I modify my styles by changing bun position (high or low) as well as ‘bang’ styling (two-strand twists, braid-out, victory roll, roll-n-tuck, etc). I use ‘fro-friendly hair accessories (DIY satin-covered sock bun form, Scunci No-Slip Grip Jelly Hair Ties, DIY black knee-high stocking hair ties and/or MetaGrip bobby pins) and a gentle touch (no tightness, no combs or brushes) to style. Every night before bed, I spritz (water/veggie glycerin), re-apply flax seed gel and tie with a satin scarf.
DIY Satin-Covered Sock Bun Form: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7SYlX7szLI
Maisha,I feel you on getting bored. As a solution I usually leave the protective styles in for short periods- 3 to four days every two weeks or so. Even a short “rest period” seems to help my hair grow out. I stay away from elaborate styles since there’s little point in investing more than an hour of styling time for something you only keep for a few days.
This sounds very similar to my best friend whose name also happens to be Rebecca:-).
I wish I had the patience. I can wear my hair in a protective style for about 3 days, then I’m bored to death and want to wear my hair out. I just love the way my hair looks out. My hair doesn’t seem like it’s suffering too much for it, but I’m sure I’d experience less breakage if I wore protective styles longer.
I don’t like twists, braids, or cornrows. I am not going to be scared of my hair because it is kinky. I didn’t go natural to live in fear of the hair on my head. I am retaining length just fine and will keep doing my wash and go.
Hi Lisa,
I think you are missing the point. No one said anything about being “afraid” of your hair because of the texture. There is always one to backlash anytime there is talk of protective styling. The name of the blog is Black Girl Long Hair and protective styling is proven to help Black Girls achieve LONG HAIR on a more consistent basis for the reasons they have listed below. Say what you want but the techniques and tips WORK and I appreciate these ladies taking their time to share these tips; I have learned a great deal about hair CARE in the past few months even though I have been relaxer free for four years and completely natural for over 3 years. Like anything in life, it is all about moderation, and you have to know and define what is moderate FOR YOU.
Thanks for the very eloquent comment msme and I agree with you that whenever protective styling is talked about there is always someone who must voice the opinion that it is not necessary.
I think it is very narrow minded of Lisa to insinuate that people who protective style are afraid of their natural texture. I also think it is very narrow minded to think that what works for you works for everyone else. There is a follow up post on protective styling which will cover hair that could benefit from protective styling and hair that can go without it.
Given the number of “I”s in my comment, it is pretty clear I am talking about what is good for ME. You are the one making broad generalizations about black girls.
I don’t like twists/braids/cornrows and will not be afraid of MY hair. I am not concerned with what anyone else does or how they feel about their hair.
If you have a link to the scientific proof that protective styling is the fail proof way to long hair, I would love to read it. Thanks.
I love the scientific challenge. The evidence you want exists. A hair style that eliminates combing,knotting and breakage leads to greater lengths for African hair. Locs are specifically mentioned but protective styling which also eliminates combing (no manipulation style) is in this category.
International Journal of Dermatology, pp 10-12, 2005
Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, pp 886-888, 2006
Just about as scientific as it gets 🙂
As I said in my previous comment, there are definitely people who can choose not to protective style and successfully gain long hair but these people have to have specific attributes to their hair which will make this possible. You will have to await the next post.
Thanks. Great information. I look forward to reading part two.
My wash and go style doesn’t cause me any tangles or knots. I put my hair in braids every night and when I take it down, my hair melts under water with conditioner in it. I have seen one SSK (at my nape where my scarf rubs against my hair) in the last year while a friend with finer hair strands, and is often afraid to do anything other than protective style, sees a ton of SSKs. She also combs out each section of her hair prior to twisting with a finer tooth comb than I will ever bring near my hair.
This reminds of Audrey’s post about what is protective styling and how we should not have a limited definition of it. I appreciate all the information because it helps me take the necessary precautions to avoid setbacks while still wearing my hair as I please. I did a length check yesterday and I have retained 7 inches this year co-washing daily and massaging my scalp. I am not complaining.
Just wanted to compliment you on a great site. I really love what you’re doing and the positivity of it! I clearly am not a woman with natural hair, but I love how you promote it. God bless and good luck.
Awwww,that’s so nice!!
I recently got twists with extensions that I LOVE!! One thing I had to realize very quickly is that I need to handle the twists as if they were all my own hair. I think sometimes with braid/twist extensions, we may tend to think our hair is protected … it is somewhat, but it is still in those strands. So, within a couple of days, I started handling my extension twists like Kimmaytube handles hers!! LOL!! Oh, and that includes putting them up and tucking the ends a few days a week since my hair is almost to the ends of the braids. Since that means my ends are exposed to the elements and rubbing my clothes, I wear them tucked several days a week.
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I wanted to include one more pic of that last style from the back. We’ll see if it works. Oh, and I’ll also add that I had my hairline and nape cornrowed (gently) as I feel having those braids secure to my head lessen the weight of the twists on my finer edges and prevents/reduces stressful twisting and turning on those strands as my hair grows. However, as indicated in the article, I also know that I’ll have to get the edges redone (I’m planning on having the “halo” redone at four weeks and trying to wear these for a total of 8 weeks, until the end of January).
I love protective styles since I began wearing them frequently this year. They keep my hair up and out of the way for work and exercise on a day to day basis. And, out of sight, out of mind is great for me … otherwise I have HIH and pick all day (I keep sheathed scissors in my purse to attack split ends where they lay;)!! LOL. However, before I got these twists, I’d wear my hair out in a twist out on wash day and the following day before going up into a protective, low-manip style for the week. So, I got the best of both worlds!
Shelli
[img]https://bglh-marketplace.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/IMG_1262.JPG[/img]
Gorgeous! All these wonderful styles may make me reconsider my no twists/braids/cornrows stance one of these days.
GORGEOUS!!!
Lisa: LOL! Thank you! I haven’t had extension braids/twists in 10+ years. But when I saw these on someone else earlier this summer (NaturallyLeslie.com), I fell in love and had to have them! I get bored easily, so I change styles all the time. Some people think of braided/twisted styles as limiting, but I see endless versatility! I was just playing around with them using a couple of banana clips when I got home from work. My mind is working … Hmmmmm. LOL!!
Jahtik, Thank you!
I have one protective style Don’t to add to the list:
Watch the styling accessories you use. Basically, avoid anything that snags the hair. When our hair is “put away” for a significant amount of time, we like to at least decorate it. However, accessories that snag (ex: ponytail holders, clips, pins) defeat the purpose of styling the hair “protectively.”
I love hair sticks because I can do protective buns and still decorate my hair. I’m attaching an image of how I have my hair today.
[img]https://bglh-marketplace.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/quadbun-sideshot.jpg[/img]
+1…I used to use those little combs for my updos and experienced noticeable breakage in the back of my head where I was doing the “tuck.” Substituting hairpins (NOT bobby pins) solved the problem. Yeah, they require a little practice, but they’re much gentler on my hair.
I need a tutorial on those hairpins as they always seem to pop back out on my updos! I use them only for small sections or in addition to bobby pins. I looked for a tutorial some time ago, but could never find one!!
Michelle, your hair looks really cute!!
I like twists, and have now recently fallen in love with mini twists as well. I would say make sure hair is definitely moisturized, and use witch hazel on scalp in between wash sections with those in it. Definitely wear the silk scarf on head or bonnet. I brought somemore magnetic rollers in large/x-large and will incorporate rollersets in my hair since it’s now cooler outside. This will help on keeping the ends from knots or ssk’s and help with retaining length for me.
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Also did you ladies here about Essence Magazine supposedly dissing Youtube Vloggers? if not here is a video that “Thecreativelady” did on the subject. Titled VR: Diademy | Did Essence Magazine Just Diss Youtube Vloggers?
httpv://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ct90auYVPBg&feature=plcp&context=C2edfeUDOEgsToPDskIhNtLgScFb4IGQ3i2LzGqy
httpv://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ct90auYVPBg&feature=plcp&context=C2edfeUDOEgsToPDskIhNtLgScFb4IGQ3i2LzGqy
Mine has be en twisted for two weeks. And as u say it does start to tangle on the twist. Time to take out:)
this is one of the best posts on this site, thank you!