How I Use Heat Safely On My Type 4 Hair

Tori 4C natural hair straightened

 by Tori (pictured above)

Not all naturals choose to use heat on their hair. However, for those that do, heat damage is the most dreaded fear. No one wants to enjoy their stretched hair, only to realize afterwards that they’ve caused permanent heat damage. Here are my techniques I’ve applied to safely use heat on my type 4 hair:

Use heat in moderation

If you are using heat on your hair every day or every week for months, then expect that there will be damage done, regardless of your texture. I can’t specifically say how often someone should apply heat to their hair. However, I personally have found that limiting the use of heat (flat iron and/or blow-drying) to less than 5 times per year helps to minimize the risk of heat damage for my hair texture/type.

Preparing your hair

Before I apply heat, I always prepare my hair by doing a special protein deep treatment, such as an egg and yogurt hair mask. Heat breaks down the protein your hair, so adding extra protein prior to applying heat will strengthen and prepare the hair for the heat to be applied. I also do protein treatments after wearing my hair stretched (with heat) to help replace the protein that was lost.

Use a heat protectant

Heat protectants are not always miracle products. Although, they cannot always absolutely prevent heat damage, they should still be used when applying heat to the hair to reduce your risk of heat damage. I personally prefer heat protectants that come in the form of a serum because they coat the hair, creating a film/barrier for heat protection.

Tension method blow-drying

Blow dryer comb attachments can cause excess breakage, so when blow-drying I often use the tension method instead. This is simply holding the section of hair taut while blow-drying from root to tip. I have found that the tension method still provides an effective blow out without the excessive stress on the hair from using the comb attachment.

Lowest possible temperature

Type 4 hair requires more heat to achieve a straighter look. However, remember that the higher the temperature, the more you are ‘frying’ your hair. Choose the lowest possible temperature setting, which will achieve the results you are looking for, to minimize heat damage. The temperature settings vary based on the tools being used, but I generally try to keep my temperature setting less than 400°F.

Do you use heat on your hair? How often do you apply heat? Have any of these tips worked for you?

About Tori: I’m Tori, a Jamaican-born natural currently living in Texas. I was reunited with my natural texture in January 2012 when I big chopped, after transitioning for a year and a half. I am still learning about my natural hair, and hope to share the knowledge and experiences I gain as I continue on my natural hair journey. You can find me on Instagram @bonafidestyle.

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12 Responses

  1. Love your hair. Thank you for the tips ~ I don’t plan to straighten my hair until the Fall/Winter but when I do, I’ll definitely refer to your post.

  2. I haven’t heat-straightened my hair in over 10 years but when I did I followed most of the advice listed here.

    – once or twice a year “just for the hell of it” (NEVER for special occasions because that’s the militant in me 😉 )
    – deep-conditioned, used heat protectant
    – just enough heat to get it “straight-ish”, never relaxer-straight…basically it looked like your hair, Tori

    Also, I gave up the blow-dryer in favor of air-drying overnight with braids or rollers (as May suggests above). The goal was to use as few heat tools and as little heat as possible. I’ve never suffered anywhere near the kind of heat damage others have experienced.

    Since I started experimenting with washing my hair every four days my blow-dryer usage has increased. However, I realized recently that while my hair looks fine with the blow-dryer, it looks even better without it. I’m considering switching to washing at night so that my hair has more time to air-dry.

  3. good advice! I do everything but the heat protectant, bought several and used them once each probably and they both sucked to me. But i do heat of any kind rarely now and when I do blow dry I do tension method or rollers then sit under a hooded dry on low for about 30 mins only your hair is very pretty and “looks” healthy to me

  4. I see Miss Tori is becoming a regular on here! lol….This is 3rd article in the past 3 weeks. Will she be writing articles?

  5. From my experience doing my sister’s 4c hair, the easiest way to get the best results is to put the hair in rollers with heat protectant in the morning and let it dry over the day before straightening (dryers work wonders too, if it’s a matter of getting it done fast, but it is better to avoid them). It gets really smooth (at least smother than a blow dryer ever has for me) and requires a lot less heat when straightening. It works with all hair types really, and it’s way better than blow drying imo.

    I’ll definitely try your tips for how to prepare the hair though!

  6. I really appreciated this point, “Heat breaks down the protein your hair, so adding extra protein prior to applying heat will strengthen and prepare the hair for the heat to be applied”. I would like to use heat soon, to perform a good trim. It’s been 3 years of dusting and I would like a hood trim.

  7. Giiiirl! I love your hair. I will not be using heat for the next couple of months but when I do, I will definitely use your tips. You are obviously doing it right!

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