5 Ways Thick and Fine Natural Hair Should be Treated Differently

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Style Icon Natasha

I have found that the classic 3a to 4b hair typing can be very misleading in regards to choosing routines and products although many naturals do still make such inferences. In my experience there are two properties of hair that are more important. First is an assessment of whether your hair is kinky, curly or both. This will determine the strength of your hair and how best to handle it. The second is an assessment of whether your individual strands are fine or thick. This will determine the type of products that will be better for your hair and will also be a guide on how best to trim and style your hair. Today I will discuss individual strand thickness. This is a general guide based on observation, some people with fine or thick hair may indeed buck the trend. Equally if your hair is somewhere between fine and thick, you may find yourself switching between the two trends.

1. More dusting for fine hair, more trimmed cuts for thick hair
If your natural hair is fine, there is a stronger tendency for the ends to tangle as the individual strands seem to really like meshing. As a result, these ends will experience more wear as they are regularly separated for styling and detangling. Choosing a dusting routine where an eighth of an inch is cut every month or so is a good choice to prevent and get rid of damage. If your strands are thicker, you will probably find that knots are rare although tangles may still occur. Therefore, you may find a set trimming routine of, for example, half an inch every 4-6 months is more appropriate to get rid of damage

2. Lighter conditioners for fine hair, heavier ones for thick hair
The issue of tangling and meshing for fine hair once more lends it to finding lighter conditioners that are packed with slip to be more beneficial especially if choosing to conditioner detangle. Lighter conditioners are more able to coat the strands even when the hair has a tendency to mesh. You may therefore find that regular store bought conditioners such as Herbal Essences, Tresemme, Aussie and VO5 are praised highly by people with fine hair. Meanwhile if you have thick strands, you may find that lighter conditioners simply do not help you as they are unable to weigh your hair down properly for ease of management when detangling. Many naturals with thicker strands may still use lighter store bought conditioners but will tend to add in olive oil or shea butter to help make the product more substantive. Hair masks and thicker products such as Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose, Jessicurl Too Shea may also be equally preferred for thicker strands.

3. Lighter oils for fine hair, butters and thicker oils for thick hair
Many naturals tend to pick oils based on their preference for scent and texture. In general , most oils are perfectly fine to use on any hair strand thickness. However, people with fine hair may find that heavier butters and oil (e.g castor oil, shea butter, coffee butter, cocoa butter) are more difficult to spread and weigh hair down excessively. These oils, however, may be beneficial to fine hair if used on just the last 1-2 inches of hair as a thicker coating for moisture retention and breakage prevention. Over the rest of the strand, lighter oils and butters (e.g coconut, jojoba, avocado butter) may be better for finer strands. People with thicker strands will generally find that pretty much any oil can work for them but a preference for castor oil and shea butter is really prevalent. This is likely to be because thicker hair can easily withstand the thick oil coating.

4. More protein for fine hair, less or none for thick hair
Finer hair tends to be prone to damage compared to thicker strands which may have both more cuticle layers and a thicker cortex. For this reason, protein is almost always a must for fine hair. This does not mean using a specific protein treatment e.g Komaza or Aphogee. This could just mean using a hair conditioner with some protein or amino acids contained within or indeed adding a few drops of the protein treatment to a regular conditioner. People with thicker strands may find that protein treatments do not add to the strength of the hair and may even make hair less flexible. They should therefore be used sparingly.

5. Less heat for fine hair
There are a few rare creatures who will tell you how they can bleach and straighten their hair one day and then dye it all to a different colour a week later without any ill effects. There are some too who will tell you how they experience no damage or breakage even after using a flat iron on high heat with several passes each time. The likely fact is that all these people have thick strands. Fine hair is just not able to do this and even low direct contact heat can easily set off breakage. If you are in this group, restrict yourself to contactless heat (hair dryer held away from hair), reduce the temperature and/or number of times you flat iron or indeed completely avoid heat.

Ladies, is your hair thick or fine? How do you manage it?

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101 Responses

  1. Thank you for this article! My individual strands are definately thick and the overall hair if extremely thick (which every hairdresser I’ve ever been to has complained about). I do find as you say that my hair needs heavier conditioners and oils. But I’m really glad for the info on proteins because I was just not clear on this. Some say to use it, some say to restrict it. So good to know I should use them sparingly. Thanks!

  2. I think the article was very informative and helpful. You got to the point on each suggestion/recommendation. I have thick, fine hair. I agree that fine hair may need more protein treatments than thick-strand hair. My concern was whether I should maintain a protein treatment more or less frequently. My routine is to do an Aphogee treatment before coloring which I do about every 2 months. I was concerned that Aphogee for severe damage (my preferred treatment) might seal the hair so much that moisture cannot get in and cause more problems. My hair is fine and difficult to keep moisturized. There isn’t enough cortex to hold the moisture but I was concerned that what water does get in would swell and burst the cuticle/cortex. I don’t like the way my hair acts with shea butter. I think it keeps out too much moisture. Castor oil is okay but is difficult to spread. I prefer using olive oil but it doesn’t hold more than a few hours either. I feel like coconut oil is too thin. One more question: should fine-strand-haired naturals wash more or less often? I find that washing frequently, even weekly seems like too much. I spend the rest of the week attempting to coat it with daily moisturizers like BB Oil Moisturizer to get it feeling better and not knotting. Thank you for the information.

  3. I have thick hair however what you said to use doesnt work for my hair because using thick products like butters and grease. they cake up on my hair and irritate my scalp. Coconut oil and my spray bottle is my bff. IF i style my hair while its wet and moisturized it looks and feels a whole lot better but since its an oil i have to use it very often because my hair sucks it right up

  4. My hair strands are fine but my hair density is thick. Tresemme and Aussie are my go-to conditioners (or Giovanni or Aubrey Organics when I have extra money). =p But I also love shea butter for my ends, and coconut oil everywhere else. My hair does love meshing and tangling up, lots of fairy knots. hahaha

  5. This article is helpful but not all the way true. Coarse and fine is used to describe individual strands of hair where thick and thin is used for density (how much) of hair. I have thick/fine strands of hair meaning my individual strands are very small but I have alot of hair. My hair loves creamy shea butter and castor oil but my hair loves coconut oil and protein too. It depends on the person

    1. I agree with you, my hair is also fine but I have lots of it. and when i use just the light oils I get more shedding, its when i add the caster and shea that my hair truly starts to act right. it just depends of the hair

  6. Mines is kinky curly and thick and that’s right trimming every 6 months works for me .

  7. Very informative article. However, I don’t think trimming often is necessary for ANY hair type…My hair is curly & fine, and I only trim when necessary which is usually once or twice a year & my almost waist length hair is both healthy & happy. Lol

    1. I actually have curly/fine hair and started trimming once a month a few months ago and it’s made a huge difference for me. It was before reading this article and I just felt like I would start trimming it if I noticed obvious damage – like for some reason my hair would break at the ends so much more often than most ppl I know. Mine’s not to my waist yet but we’ll see lol. When I did once/twice a year it just stayed at the between the shoulders length. Waist length is the goal though so I’m gonna keep researching and experimenting!

  8. I have both thick and fine hair. My strands are fine but I have an excessive amount of them on my head, what should I do?
    [img]https://bglh-marketplace.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/image-20.jpg[/img]

  9. This article is so important-thank you!I’ve only discovered recently, after a year and a half going natural, that my hair is fine.Trials with different treatments, after MUCH research, has led me to weekly oil treatments(A MUST I believe!!); alternating weekly between heavy and light protein shots(on my ends); and sealing with avocado oil(shea butter on my ends).
    I also need to clarify/wash almost every week due to a sensitive scalp(Argan oil shampoo or Bicarbonate of soda or ACV).Protective and low-manipulation styling has helped me retain length, at the same time.
    I’ve realised today-“beating my body and making it my slave”-that my ends has become less tangly(even during washing it).I think that keeping it stretched and oil treatments has a lot to do with it.
    My napes want the LEAST tension, otherwise the hairs leave my scalp.After at least 15years of relaxing, I have to deal with the consequences of the lack of knowledge.
    I really thank God for sights like BGLH.Going Natural has literally changed my way of walking through life:)!!

    1. Hi Licinda- i have fine hair-and all i do is struggle!!! all i don is think about cutting it. please tell me how you overcome this?

  10. My hair is thick and fine! So I have to mix the products depending in what I am trying to accomplish. I like thick conditioners and styling products because they bring out more of a curl pattern. But I like light oils because the heavier oils run straight down my head and do not penetrate.
    [img]https://bglh-marketplace.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/image-58.jpg[/img]

  11. For some reason I assumed this was going to help gauge the type of strands and basically help me to figure out if my strands are fine, thick, or in between. The most part of my life natural, and I still have no idea -. – …. *sigh* I’m frustrated

  12. This article is on point, your hair type really does matter because speaking as a fine haired natural chica, I have come to realize I can’t use thick heavy oils and butters on my hair. The lighter the better, and they have to pack plenty moisture as the article says.

    When it comes to butters and heavy oils, I love how these products make my hair feel and they do help my hair hold moisture better, but they do weigh my strands down which can cause unneccesary shedding. I compensate by melting sheabutter and letting it cool down then adding some castor oil and coconut oil and whip it until it becomes a light creamy texture.. Now I have the best of both worlds, thick hair products used on fine hair.. Now my hair is soft, moisturized, shiny and has out of this world definition.

  13. My hair is like a half eaten donut: on the sides and the nape, my hair is thick and coily. But in the front, its fine, frizzy and impossible to style.

  14. I never took into account that my hair is fine until reading this and seeing my hair’s behavior spelled out. As I read, I was reminded of how my hair does mesh together when it’s twisted. I have to gently pull them apart as they appear to be borderline dreaded. This article helped me realize why my hair acts the way it does. I used to be frustrated until now. I have my hair pictures here if anyone would like to see them: http://knotsoknappy.weebly.com

    1. Same here! I have super dense hair so I thought my strands were thick. Next wash I’m doing a protein treatment because I finally figured out that’s why my hair is unhappy!

  15. according to this article i guess i’m…like none of these lol i can flat iron my hair on high heat, several passes of the iron, on a regular basis as well, and on hair bleached several times, and not completely lose curl pattern (hair will still curl and will spring back up when tugged downward). I don’t use oils in my hair, not directly, because oils dry my hair out. if oil is in a product already, then that’s fine, but direct oil is a no. for this reason, i must be the only natural out there that does not “seal” in the strictest sense. My hair doesn’t break as a result of dryness; it will break with manipulation, but only with a great deal of it. it’s pretty strong and naturally elastic, and durable. I can stave off trimming for long periods (a year or more) if i avoid heat and dye, but my hair doesn’t keel over if i do either outside of moderation.
    i think my strands are medium thickness, although some are finer, some are thicker, depending on where they are. the edges are fine, but the crown is coarse. i can get by without protein or deep conditioning when my hair hasn’t been altered at all by heat or chemicals, so i guess based off this assessment my hair would fall somewhere between medium and thick.

  16. This is one of the most helpful articles I’ve read on BGLH. Thank you for posting it. (Fine hairs, but a lot of them.)

    1. Very nice article, useful and helpful!
      [img]https://bglh-marketplace.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/image-31.jpg[/img]
      [img]https://bglh-marketplace.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/image-31.jpg[/img]
      [img]https://bglh-marketplace.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/image-31.jpg[/img]

  17. my hair strands are fine yet super dense (giving the appearance of thick hair). I found most of the information in this article to be true for my hair. But I mostly do the best I can for my hair (after 6 years I am still learning)

  18. I’m of the mindset that you have to put categories aside and do what is best for your hair. My hair is thick and coarse. Before I went natural, I was responsible for a few broken combs and more than one stylist complained about burning their fingers on my hair. I know my hair is in it’s optimum condition when I pull down a fresh twist and once released, it springs back into place. What works for my hair kinda contradicts this article. I cleanse my scalp with diluted vinegar. I then cleanse the strands with a conditioner like VO5 or Herbal Essences Hello Hydration (I don’t add anything). I detangle and twist into smaller sections using shea butter. Sometimes I’ll added a bit of coconut oil to the mix but not much. End of story. No special protein treatments, muds, powders, ointments or cremes. No deep conditioners.

    1. your hair burns others’ fingers too,lol break combs and barrettes, so you have to buy 2 to contain it all; i now use mostly those flexi8 clips. i love it when the new stylist does not believe you.
      its great hair, can do most anything we want it to, but needs time to get through. i usually wear mine up or in a ponytail when i wear it straight. gets too hot her in so cal.
      i love my thick coarse super kinky big ha;r.

  19. The article talks of think vs fine, but I am a medium strand girl. I like Suave and Vo5 for conditioners better then anythings with oils, but I do want oil for my after wash care. I can use Shea Butter but only ONCE right after washing, then I have to use something light (Coconut Oil, Olive Oil) until I have to wash again.

    Also of note for styling that the article didn’t mention…when your hair is fine it will less likely hold a definition from a twist/braid out, where thick strand hair will better hold a twist out braid out ect…So consider that when making your styling choice and choose products that will help (fine hair may need gel for twist/braid out). HTH

      1. I thought you meant thick hair strands vs. Thin hair strands. I didn’t think you made a mistake.
        Great article btw i’m in the: thick hair/ thin strand category and the conditioner tips were on point!

  20. For me I find that strand width and porosity are the most important aspects of figuring out proper haircare. When I realized my hair was highly porous everything changed. Once I knew that, I also knew that products with strong humectants like honey/glycerin and a host of others does NOT do well for my hair. Shampooing opens up my already opened cuticles even more so I find that I cant really get away with too much shampooing unless I pH balance my hair afterwards. Copious amounts of protein and henna treatments do wonders for my hair. Apple cider vinegar is great and aloe vera anything is MY EVERYTHING! Whereas for someone with low porosity hair they might HAVE TO shampoo in order to get those cuticles opened enough to reap the benefits of the latter parts of their haircare routine. Low porosity hair just might loath protein and aloe vera but LOVE honey and glycerin.
    At all steps of haircare from washing to styling porosity is vital in letting us know what our hair likes and dislikes.

  21. Thank you for this article. I wish I had either thick or fine but I have both. And my fine hair is smack dab in the top middle of my head. It’s always prone to breakage, knotting, and doesn’t grow as fast as my other strands (or maybe it breaks faster than it grows idk). Does anyone know if henna works better as a strengthening treatment for fine hair or if protein treatments are best?

    1. I have multiple texture and densities on my head, but most of my strands are fine. When I hennaed, my hair became dry and brittle, causing a lot of breakage–especially in the fine-haired regions of my head. I always deep conditioned and diluted my henna mix, but my hair broke no matter what….so I don’t henna anymore.

    2. this is far from generalising, the tips would have been stupid if she said, heavy butters for 4c hair, light oils for 4a hair… but she has broken it down into what really matters (and not some stupid hair type).

  22. AS I READ TIP NUMBER ONE I QUICKLY REALIZED THIS ARTICLE IS USELESS. IT’S LIKE YOU GUYS ARE JUST LOOKING FOR ANYTHING TO TALK ABOUT RIGHT OR WRONG. YOU CAN’T GENERALIZE HAIR CARE INTO A FEW SUB CATEGORIES AND CALL IT A DAY.

  23. My hair is both coarse and thick and it loves protein treatments. My hair always feels stronger and more flexible after I rinse.

  24. I feel like something really important to note is that as a person with Thin strands (not Fine strands) you should do everything possible to prevent wear and tear if you want to retain length.

    #1 wearing your hair in protective styles to prevent daily manipulation
    #2 preventing tangles

    you can prevent tangling by not keeping protective styles in for too long and by keeping the hair stretched. I have made a sad mistake for 2+ years of thinking” OMG! i have fine 4c hair, i better protect it ’round the clock!” this lead to keeping my hair in “protective” styles so long that the strands meshed and tangled and the take down was so hard on my hair that i lost length…all the while I was like..but i wear protective styles 90% of the time, why am i not retaining length?

    The answer was that I was keeping the styles in for so long my hair would knot and i would sustain a lot of breakage during the take down and detangle process. Now, I vow to never keep a style in more than 10 days. I take down and do a light detangle (which is all that is necessary) then put a style back in.

    Basically get to know your hair, and then prevent the conditions that break your hair, that can be wearing it out, and wearing it in too much/long. Balance according to your own hair’s needs is of the utmost IMPORTANCE.

    1. I agree with you for the most part. I have thin/fine strands of hair but a medium density. It works best for me to section my hair when co-washing it. I discovered that conditions clean just as well as shampoos by using it to clean the sink. Ha ha. Anyway, I rarely shampoo but when I do, I use a moisturizing non-sulfate/silicones/parafens, etc. shampoo. I have been wearing my hair in 2-strand mini twists for the past 4 months and it tangles something fierce after 2 weeks. It doesn’t help that all of my hair is not 3c/4b but I have many straight strands (2b) mixed in. Those 2’s will travel to the other side of my head or the 3/4’s will strangle them. I have to sit with a bowl of aloe vera juice nearby and run some down the twists in order to take the twists apart for washing without breaking or tangling the hair more. I’ve tried plain water, I guess it has to be softened water or something. Straight water does not loosen any tangles for me. I also think that because the strands are thin/fine, your hair does not hold moisture as well if at all and so you have to be more diligent about moisturizing and sealing on a daily or every other day basis. It works for me.

      1. I experience the same ( I have fine to medium strands that are medium to densely packed) with loose 2b strands straying to cause tangles with the rest of my hair and I keep my hair in twists for no longer than 7-10 days to minimize meshing. For take down/detangling, I mist with water then “squeeze” in Soultanicals Knot Sauce to soften my twists and add slip for gentle finger-combing, then comb-detangling, finally followed by using “praying hands” method to remove shed ends. I think the one of the keys to minimizing meshing while wearing twists is to make sure that (most to) all shed hairs are removed before restyling hair into twists.

  25. Things like strand thickness are on a continuum. With “normal” thickness, you may need some protein but not a lot and experience crispiness when you use too much like someone with really coarse hair. For people with really, really thin strands, the more protein the better and they rarely, if ever, experience protein sensitivity. Basically if you experience protein sensitivity, your hair isn’t that thin; it’s probably on the continuum between normal and coarse.

  26. This is good advice. I have very fine hair. I don’t retain much length partly because of the tangles. These tangles fight ugly. I took a magnifying glass and do you know my hair had many individual strands that had knots in them. Its like they tripped over their own foot and got tangled with themselves! Crazy! So I see the only way is to cut (dust) ends every month? I do the protein regimen. Its just those darn ends breaking and breaking. Ok hope this helps me and others.

    1. May I ask what your protective style regimen is? My hair did the same “knots upon knots with more knots” thing when I tried to subsist on wash ‘n gos. I didn’t see any relief from this until I started wearing my hair in two-strand twists during the week. I still get SSKs, but now it’s only one or two per strand, rather than 10+ 🙂

      1. I had the same experience with the Wash and Go hairstyle, and I have fine, moderately dense hair. I have learned that, unfortunately for my hair, the Wash and Go is definitely a No-Go, LOL.

        I have had more success protective styles (I just have to be sure they are not too tight/too stressful on my hair).

        1. My hair is so fine that it doesn’t stay twisted. And when I use any holding creams, my hair looks stringy. What is a great protective style for curlies with super fine hair?

  27. I actually have long, curly, thin, fine(I mean very fine!) hair and I have always flat ironed my hair on the highest heat setting(450 degrees) and I have very little to no damage or breakage when I’m done.

    1. What type of heat protectant do you use? I ask because I’m interested in flat ironing my hair as well

    2. I’m thinking that using high heat on your hair is why the strands are “very fine”. You’ve burnt away most, if not all, of the cuticle.

  28. Any tips for ladies, like me, with medium hair? I’m not quite fine, but I’m not thick haired either.

  29. You can have fine hair, but a lot of it. I have fine, low porosity hair, and I have a lot of it. I cannot use the heavier butters like shea, but I can use mango butter. I use jojoba or sweet almond oil to seal.

  30. THANK YOU!!! I’ve been fully natural for since Aug and I have very fine hair. Then I transition my ends were never split but since I cut off the last of it, it seems like I HAVE to trim my ends every 6 weeks cause they just get wrapped in them self. No split ends just rough ends that feel totally different then the rest of the strand. Thanks for affirming this for me.

    1. I have the SAME THING, AJ!!! I’m always dusting my ends and checking them because they feel and look so much rougher than the rest of my hair, but when I look closely, they aren’t split…. So annoying… And confusing

  31. I am extemely thankful for this article. My hair can appear to be thick because it is thick in density meaning I have a lot of stands. However, the individual strands are finer than avg piece of thread.

  32. i have combination hair,so I apply a thick hair technique to my hair. The article makes sense,although some parts of it may not work for people who fall under the thick vs. thin category
    themanecaptain.blogspot.ca

  33. So what if you have both??? lol My hair is fine as hell, but there’s a lot of it. Are we talking “thick” as in the strands are thick??

    1. Nope, your hair is fine, so treat it as that, may people have made a mistake thinking that because they have lots of hair, the individual strands were coarse so could take a load of abuse.
      Cipriana from urbanbushbabes is a perfect example, thick hair,Fine strands.

  34. i agree with the comments above and i think some things could have been explained better. i have fine strands but thick (more dense) hair. Im learning that my hair is protein sensitive and i NEED super thick and creamy conditioner that gives me a lot of slip. But i guess it just really takes time to learn ur own hair and what it needs.

  35. There is a difference between hair density and thickness of individual hair strands. This post doesn’t really make that distinction clear.

    1. I could not have been more explicit that I was talking about individual strand thickness. Please read the crucial first sentence referring to thickness.

      ‘The second is an assessment of whether your individual strands are fine or thick’

      Hair density is not hair strand thickness.

  36. I want get some clarity on the terminology.

    I’ve always understood “thickness” and “thinness” to separate issues from “course” and “fine”. My understanding was that “thickness/thinness” had to do with the total amount of actual strands on your head. And “course/fine” had to do with the size or width of the individual strands. Therefore, a person could have thick but fine hair. But I’m not sure we’re all on subscribing to that definition.

    Thoughts? Comments?

    1. Exactly! I have fine hair strands but VERY many strands or I usually say my hair is fine but very dense….

    2. I agree with you, that coarse and fine have to do with the size of the individual strands and thickness has to do with how much hair you have or the density. My sister’s hair is very, very thick and dense, but her strands are very fine

    3. density has to do with the number of strands, thick(course) vs fine has to do with the diameter of each strand.

    4. @Ugonna Wosu is correct. Thickness refers to the diameter of a single hair strand whereas density refers to the number of hairs growing on the scalp per square inch. One can have low density, medium density, or high density

    5. Hi, so fine, medium, or course refers to the individual hair strands while thinness or thickness of your hair refers to the overall density of the hair. So you can have fine hair(individual strand is thin) but have thick hair if the number of hair folicules on your scalp is large in number. If you have fine hair but the number of hair folicules on the scalp is smaller in number then the overall appearance of the hair will be thin.

  37. i’m a fine curly 3C-4A, i must say single strand knots have been teasing me lately, i definitly incorporated oil rinsing to reduce breakage, sealing the ends with coconut oil or Oyin handmade burnt sugar. I will try hot oil treatments for more benefits, but using Oyin handmade hair dew has really make my hair incredibly soft and manageable ! A caucasian friend of mine told me that henna was really good to do once in a year for super soft hair

    organic coconut oil is my favorite oil (also for cooking it’s delicious) for sealing, it works better than jojoba, almond or else for me.
    To moisturise I use a little bit of the oyin greg juice then the hair dew and sometimes the shine&define oyin or Koils by nature peppermint soothing gel.

    For hair health and body health don’t forget to drink daily juice or smoothie (i do pear-apple-spinach-orange-alfalfa sprouts – ginger), eat good veggies, you will really see the difference in you.

  38. Great post. Yes fine vs thick is more important than being a 3b or 4c in most instances. To be clear when articles like these are posted people want to call them “rules”. These are merely observations and some tips to some common hair care issues. The only rules to natural hair are the ones you create for yourself. For my fine hair all the observations mentioned in the article are pretty much true for me. The only one I’m indifferent to is the one about light oils vs heavy oils and butter’s. Despite my hair being fine it has no preference to the texture of the oil. For me its all in the application of the oil/butter and how often I apply them. The issue with heat is oh so right. I was a so called straight hair natural for years who struggled with breakage and length retention. I thought no chemicals equals healthy hair lol. Turns out just because your hair can revert back to normal after washing doesn’t mean your hair isn’t damaged. Had I had thicker hair this might not have been true but with my fine hair it just got weaker and thinner. Thankfully I know better now.

    1. take a thread and compare the sizes, if your hair strand is almost the same width as the thread, then its thick, if it’s barely seen when next to the thread, then it’s thin.

  39. My hair is just a rule breaker I have fine/dense hair but it does not like alot or more then a slight amount of protein especially in conditioner( It hate protein in conditioner period). It hates most conditioners period due to the protein content after only one use. It also hates most products all together. My hair hated shea moisture I even just tried to use the the whole jar it acted like a hard core protein treatment in my hair. It stopped the little breakage I had but make my hair hard and crisp. Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose is the only conditioner I can use repeatedly without any ill effects. My hair loves a mix of light and heavy oils is really love castor oil. It also does not like being wet often (I know right)It likes to be detangled dry with oil if I detangle wet my hair just breaks off. I start at the root and work the shed hair down to the center than work from the ends. My breakage detangling has all but stopped. I can not detangle with conditioner or with wet or damp hair at all. I use to wonder why my hair just goes against the flow now I expect it. I also do not dust I trim twice a year and that works for me. I guess even though I have fine hair most of these do not work for me and actually do more harm them good.

    1. Sounds like you could also possibly be low-porosity, despite your fine strands. Have you ever tested that?

      1. Yes,I tested that a few time and I think I am low porosity. My hair also has a high natural sheen without any product which is suppose to be another sign of low porosity. That is when I realized to stop with the protein unless is was a once in awhile strengthening treatment and it has been working for me. My hair still hates being detangle wet or if I start at the ends. I have to start at the root and move the shed hair down and THEN move to the ends and work my way up. The other two ways my hair was breaking off bad.

        1. I detangle my hair the same way. I tried wet detangling and i don’t like it. It works for the back of my hair only.

  40. As most of the products that I use contain protein and my prepoo contains avocado oil which is higher in protein than coconut oil, I seldom, if ever, give myself a “protein treatment”. My hair appears thick but I believe the individual strands are fine to normal. I am in my 60s so I feel that the loss in thickness/density is primarily due to age. I feel that my hair is confused and does not follow these rules so much.

  41. I think out of all of these, #4 is the most important. When you have fine hair, you naturally have less protein in the strands. Making sure you get enough protein is the foundation for keeping your hair moisturized. I’ve had the experience of adding and adding moisturizing products, but because I was neglecting protein, my hair didn’t respond. I don’t do the major treatments; just every product I use has little bits of protein in them: I use Tresemme Split Remedy to detangle (lots of slip, it’s great), Pantene Fine Hair solutions shampoo/conditioner, and SheaMoisture Curl Enhancing Smoothie to twist/style. If I need extra hold for a style, I add EcoStyler gel. My hair has improved a TON, after going through a time where I was neglecting it after having my second kid. After over a decade being natural (half of that time I spent loc’d), I still didn’t know that having fine hair meant be more deliberate about including protein regularly.

  42. I have been trying to figure out for a while now whether I have fine hair or thick hair. Overall has a massive entity my hair is definitely thick, but how do I know that I don’t just have a hell of alot of fine hairs? My individual strands mesh alll the time, but I also think my hair has a high tolerance for heat. How can I tell what my individual strands are?

  43. I fall right in between with medium coarse strands (I also have some fine and coarse strands as well). I find myself falling directly in-between when it comes to products usage. I like my rinse out conditioners lighter but I love shea butter and JBCO. My hair loves protein (especially when it needs it) but hates it if it too concentrated (i.e.: Curl Junkie Curl Rehab). Keeping protein and moisture balance is so hard for me! I think my poor hair is just confused! LOL maybe someone should do an article for the medium coarse women out there with low porosity hair! Shout to anyone who fits this description!

  44. Good advice. I agree with most guidelines except the trimming. Regardless of hair type, don’t trim unless you are experiencing breakage, excessive split ends/ knotting, etc. I have fine hair and I was dusting on a timeline similar to the one listed in the article to “prevent damage”…….I ended up slowly dusting away perfect healthy hair. Now I just do regular protein/ henna treatments and have mastered the art of preserving my ends/preventing knotting to begin with; only after these things are done will I ask whether a trim/ dust is necessary. Entering a too-often dusting/trimming schedule sometimes does more harm than good. Uneven ends and wasting perfectly good growth is pointless

  45. wow! this was a great read! i absolutely agree 100% with this, i have very fine hair and until my hhj i had no idea about protein or moieture, i was always told about how my hair was tough, and hairdressers and my mother would grease it up for moisture, smh…lol we didnt know better.
    my hair neeeeds protein regularly, and light oils definately are easier to use than butters for me. i use castor oil at the very ends,

    im currently considering transitioning and this is some great advice on how to care for the natural hair during that process. i wish i knew this years ago! but everything in its time,

    thanx again

  46. My hair is thick and I have used all the methods you have mentioned. I am glad that you mentioned castor oil-I have wanted to try this. I have a heavy hand so I have to make sure not to use too much. Thank for the tips.
    [img]https://bglh-marketplace.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/HairdoneSeptember2013.jpg[/img]

  47. Heres the thing I don’t understand with these do’s and don’t: Is my hair some special type of natural 4b/c hair? – Because it loves thick butters and creams and conditioners and is extremely protein sensitive. lol

    My “light” cream for the summer is Shea Moisture’s Curl Enhancing Smoothie. For the colder months – raw whipped shea butter.

    I am still on the search for a good conditioner with slip though, so if there are any recommendations, I am open!

    1. You sound like you have thick (coarse, not fine) strands. Re-read the post and you’ll see everything you just said in there under thick strands. It’s not special. It’s that the number-letter system is essentially meaningless for hair care purposes.

    2. Mine too and my strands are not coarse at all, they are fine. My hair likes the opposite of a lot of these recs. it likes castor and dislikes coconut. Also it’s protein sensitive. There is no one size fits all diagnosis.

  48. My hair is dense and kinky but I have no idea if I have fine or thick strands – how can you even tell?? Lol, I don’t even think about that when I choose products or style my hair, I honestly don’t think it matters so much to know. Just experiment until you find the right styles and products and go with those. I guess since most of the things that I do fall into your label of thick, maybe that’s what it is.

    I can say that I do use Aphrogee 2 minute condition on my hair every week because if I don’t my hair is mushy! Using it balances out all the moisture I use in my hair and makes it springy and strong. Can’t live without the stuff.

  49. How does one tell if they have fine or thick hair? As Mojo said above: ‘I have recently discovered that though my hair appears to be thick the strands are fine.’ I’m really looking forward to my BC in a few days, and to work on a regimen suitable for my hair.

    1. Another option is to compare a single strand of your hair to a piece of thread. If your hair is visibly thinner than the thread, you can pretty safely say you have fine hair.

      Also, the article uses the terms “thick” and “fine”, which, for me is a bit confusing. I’ve always understood it to be a comparison of “coarse” vs “fine”. A person can have thick hair, meaning a lot of individual strands of hair, but fine hair-meaning the actual strands are thin. Hope that was helpful.

  50. I have recently discovered that though my hair appears to be thick the strands are fine. I am currently on a goal for myself to do more protective styling. I currently have mini twist and plan on having them in for a month (fingers crossed) I don’t plan on washing my hair but I will incorporate my ACV rinses (to avoid product buildup) and to still moisturize my hair prior to sleeping. I think low manipulation works wonders on fine strands since it is prone to breakage, less is more!

  51. My hair is fine and I’m very much of a minimalist when it comes to daily hair care — mostly because my hair is very long (stretched mid-back) and at times I’m just downright lazy. I co-wash twice a month, clarify with ACV when needed, finger-comb with my stash of goodies, and then it’s back in twists during the week (for a full twist-out on the weekends). Since I also have major shrinkage, I rock a big curly fro (think Yaya) for 3-day hair. Other than that, I dust for knots, avoid any heat, and stick with Shea Moisture, Naturally Silk Elements (gel cream and curly pudding), and a mix of oils (Olive, Avocado, Sweet Almond, and Castor). As a reformed PJ, I thank God for allowing me to find two good products on the market that are fairly inexpensive and that don’t contain any of the bad stuff (i.e., mineral oil, petrolatum, parabens, etc.).

    Lastly, I sleep in a silk bonnet to further protect my strands (or I’ll use a silk pillowcase).

    1. I’m closing in on 3 years natural and I am now starting to adopt the minimalist way of hair care…and its been going so well! I’m already lazy with my hair plus busy with work and school and grad apps and my boyfriend likes it when I wear my hair up 😉 so I do bunned twists pretty much constantly *with no twistout at the end of the week* at this point (its been about 2 weeks). I do a mid-week wash in my medium twists, oil it then bun it. Tonight I’ll be finger detangling each twist, moisturizing then re-twisting and re-bunning. For the full wash I plan to do something similar to the mid-week wash but with more good-for-the-hair steps. Its fast, easy, leads to less knots already and I really can care less about how boring it seems because I’m living a pretty full life and I dont think about my hair 24/7 plus I’m aiming for healthy long hair and I’m positive I’m going to get it with this simple regime. 🙂

  52. My hair is extremely thick. Low heat is a no no for me. Even for flat ironing (twice a year) I have to use 475 degrees because the recommended 400 does nothing for my strands. Also, heavier oils and conditioners are spot on in the write up. My hair has been the same my whole life so I pretty much learned what my hair can take from my mom and stepmom. When I took over I stopped using hair grease, gel, and hard bristle brushes for these reasons: (1) hair grease on my scalp causes build up for me so it itches all the time, (2) gel makes my do-rag dirty faster lol and (3) soft bristle brushes work better at laying my hair down whereas hard bristles only makes it frizzier <– not a word lol

    1. Wow my strands are kinky and thick and I’ve never gone past 350 degrees for my flat iron. I’ve only flat ironed once in two years and there was a lot of humidity, which is probably why it wasn’t that straight. I’ll try to heat it a little higher now. Thanks.

  53. Great article. My strands are fine. Heat pretty much destroys my hair, so I stay far away from it. I get single strand knots with minimal effort on my part. I counteract this with hot oil treatments and oil rinsing. I have also started spraying my hair with a very diluted acv and water spritz, after which I apply my leave in. Greek yoghurt treatments are an absolute must on my strands. I wear my hair in a wash n go twa, bc’d to no hair in january this year. Please, ladies, if any of you have additional tips, do let me know. Thanks 🙂

  54. Re: 5 Ways…

    For the last 6 years I have been wearing wigs as a protective style but now I want to wear my own natural hair long (use to wear very short fros and braids. So I need to learn how to handle it again. It’s 5 to 11 inches in length and fineeee and very poreous. I mean I got a perm 6 years ago and kissed most of my hair goodbye like the days later.

    So I’m freeing myself from my beloved safety blanket (wigs) and want to achieve my hair goals sans the wigs.

    So back to basics and I wish I had read 5 Ways…before the grueling 3 hrs washing; conditioning with a strong protein treatment; and detangling (before after and during the whole ordeal)my meshy fine hair.
    But you are correct that the my hair was more manageable when I did light protein treatments on a regular basis vs the Aphogee once a month. hmmm.
    Again it’s true my hair likes the lighter oils but I kept thinking I was doing something wrong when it came to the heavier oils and not getting the same results. (more is better logic) However, I will keep the black castor oil in my bag of tricks. You reminded me to listen to my hair. Something I’ve had to do by wearing my hair in braids under a wig. Honestly I avoided oils all together in order not to gunk up my wigs. :/

    I cut off four inches last year to counteract the knots but I will try my hand at dusting to see if this helps instead of such a drastic cut.
    Dusting will become my new best friend, hopefully. Off to look up how to master the technique. Thank you again and please keep of the good work.

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