by
Geniece
Ever so often, I hear a horror story of how a trip to the hair salon went horribly wrong. For women with natural hair, the worst of these stories typically involve one of four scenarios:
1) rough detangling using a fine toothed comb
2) a “trim” that resulted in a serious hair cut
3) heated styling tools that lead to permanent damage
4) adding a chemical relaxer to conditioners to “loosen” the curl pattern without informing the customer.
These are frustrating experiences that highlight the lack of care and understanding illustrated by stylists unfamiliar with natural hair. So, how do you avoid repeating a negative experience? How can you prepare yourself for visiting the stylist for the first time after you began wearing your hair naturally? Here, I provide a few tips that will hopefully make your next hair experience one that you won’t regret.
Bring Your Preferred Products
When you go a salon you are likely paying for a service that includes the products used by the stylist, such as shampoo, conditioner, oils, etc. However, if you know that there are certain products that you prefer feel free to ask the salon if they carry the product in stock and if not don’t hesitate to bring your preferred products with you. Not only will you be more comfortable with the products used in your hair, but you can also be more confident that the stylist won’t add harsh chemicals while washing or conditioning your hair because they now have the option of citing your products as the cause for any undesirable outcomes. However, this won’t prevent a stylist bent on harming your hair with chemicals. In this case, you’ll want to screen salons before booking your appointment.
The Screening Process
Just because a salon provides the service you’re seeking doesn’t necessarily mean it’s the right place for you or your hair. The last time I had my hair straightened at a salon I got the impression, based on the stylist’s “advice,” that she had very little experience with tightly coiled hair. For example, she told me that I shouldn’t twist my hair because it compromises the health my hair. At the time, my hair was around waist length, thick and healthy so her advice seemed odd, to say the least. Trust me, you do NOT want to be a natural hair practice for your stylist; Be sure they have experience working with your hair type. If the salon isn’t one that specializes in natural hair then I recommend interviewing a stylist and asking the following questions:
Which size of combs would you use for my hair type?
What type of shampoo do you use? (if they are experienced with natural hair care they should have non sulfate shampoos in their inventory)
What is your method of straightening? (if that is the service you are requesting)
Trims, Cuts and Heat Damage
This is a tricky area because well-meaning stylists can be so focused on having your straightened hair appear “even” that they don’t consider how a cut will impact the styling of your naturally curly/coily hair. There are two ways to go about addressing this issue:
1. Ask that the stylist not cut your hair at all because you plan on cutting it yourself later.
2. Request that no more than “X” inches be trimmed but be sure to underestimate. So, if you truly want a trim not to exceed 3 inches then ask that no more than one or two inches be trimmed. If they exceed you request by an inch or two, your trim will not exceed your personal preference
When it comes to the use of heat on your hair, call the salon ahead and ask what heat protectants they use. If you prefer, you can even bring your own heat protectant, if you think it may be better for your hair. As for the straightening tool, feel free to ask the model of flat iron they use and explain that some flat irons have heating settings that work poorly on your hair. Once you have the model name, look up the specs of the brand so that you can request that stylist not exceed a certain setting. Be sure to tell him or her that you are less concerned with bone straight hair, so that they don’t feel the need to use the highest heat setting, which is typically the case for tightly coiled hair.
I know that some of these tips may seem overly cautious, but if you’ve ever had a bad salon experience then you know that best remedy is prevention.
Share you salon disasters. What do you do to insure that you are satisfied with your salon experience?
27 Responses
Can I ask the name of the school that teaches natural hair exclusively?
Madam Walker’s Braids, Lockery & School is located in the DC suburbs
Everette’s Natural Hair & Beauty School and Salon in Detroit
Wish I had seen this article before getting my hair done earlier today. I decided to give a natural hair salon a try and I will never go back. I have very thick type 4 hair. The stylist raked through my hair using a fine tooth comb AND combed from root to tip. I was cringing the entire time and was too afraid to say anything since she’s the professional. My hair looked bomb after but I’m honestly surprised to still have hair left on my head and I’m scared to know how much hair was lost during the entire process. Ladies, please be careful with who you let handle your hair and don’t be afraid to asked the questions mentioned in the article and to walk away if you do not like the way your hair is being handled
im sorry i just saw this. i actually just started researching info about pH so before i give the ingredients i want to make sure its not too alkaline because i tested it before work and it was an 8!
I’m A YEAR NATURAL . Even tho I achieved my goal shoulder length when stretched I still got a bad trim at the salon which set ms back my hair was a little longer than shoulder length when stretched no anymore . Well still achieved my goal but in its shrinkage state it looks like a awful version of a Bob .
That’s why I don’t go to the salon anymore one lady who claimed to know natural lady gave me a bad hair cut not a trim then said I don’t want to make it too short and said she wasn’t done she will finish next time . My hair was equal lengths now I’m growing out a badly cut Bob which is all different lengths ( shoulder length when stretched ) . The last time I went to the salon she gave me the worst twist out didn’t even finish drying my hair and combed with a small tooth comb . She was also getting frustrated detangling my hair . I heard her sighing in frustrating and complaining under her breath . Now I do my own hair I twist out then put it in a twisted bun with two pieces hanging out . It’s so cute . OH AND I HAD A Worst experience WITH Braid Extensions at the salon . That’s why I don’t wear weaves or wigs anymore ! No more salons for me even so called black natural hair salons are bad
i went to a lady who “specialized” in natural hair. her own hair was natural and long i mean down her back and she def was a type 4. she used a fine tooth comb blow dried my hair without protecting it from heat and i went for a trim and she cut off 2 inches! my hair was really cute but never again. on the plus side she used some product that was so moisturizing that i went home and immediately began trying to make whatever she used (i asked but since she sells it she didnt want to disclose). But i figured it out.
Do you mind sharing the ingredients?
wait a minute hoooold up! people putting relaxers in conditioners now?? They really doing the most…I wish somebody would…
I basically am not going to the salon…ever. Lol at her saying twisting damages your hair. I think I’ll pass. 🙂
icryclouds.blogspot.com
I recently visited a salon for the first time in a LONG time just to get what they called a “curly set,” aka a WNG. The stylist was experienced with curly hair — she had trained at Devachan — and to my pleasant surprise she did a really good job on my 4b coils. For better or worse, I was the only black woman in the salon…but I was treated with the utmost respect and courtesy. And I’m going to keep it 100 (do people still say that? lol): That was more than I could say for a few “black” salons I’ve been to since going natural.
I understand that most cosmetology schools in the US don’t focus on natural Afro-textured hair outside of relaxing and cutting it but there’s got to be some supplemental extra-credit something out here for stylists to take. Whatever the Afro-textured version of Devachan training is…something…
I wish I knew all this two months ago before having my hair straightened at a salon…my trim turned into a massive haircut 🙁 🙁
Detangle and stretch your hair before going to the salon
YES YES YES!! They have no problem ripping those combs through your tangles, shredding your hair.
I’ve been to model castings for salon hair shows like Redken and so on. Those are the worst nightmare ever for any type 4 hair girl. If I’m not getting the evil eye from any Caucasian stylist there, I’m getting evaluated last or ignored. I’ve even been excited once to see a 3a curly girl at my most recent and LAST ever salon casting. She was brave enough to straight up ask if he does ethnic hair. He cooed “I love ethnic hair”, and explained it takes longer to do and such, and 3a girl should stay for the entire casting. He then looked at me, rolled his eyes, then continued with the other wavy haired models. He gave me that look the entire day and I finally asked permission to leave because it was obvious I wasn’t going to be casted for their show. He said “fine” in the rudest way possible.
Also, as a tip for aspiring natural or curly haired models, you must be open to changing your hair (flat ironing, etc) for clients or your agency or else.
I like this article. I am strict about trimming my 4c hair. Thick, blunt ends make my styles look better, and my hair stays healthier. Plus, I have easy detangling sessions when I trim every 10-12 weeks. I used to go to my an All-Star stylist in Philadelphia, but I’ve moved back to Houston now. There are not many naturals and therefore not many natural salons. The few more well-known ones have horrible customer service. I’ve resorted to going to the woman who did my hair as a child, when I had a relaxer. I went to her 1 time so far For a $15 trim service. Here’s what I learned:
1) Detanle before hand: I didn’t detangle my hair since 3 or 4 days prior. Big mistake.
2) Go for a trim service ONLY, unless they know how to work natural hair. This was essential to me because my hair dresser doesn’t have natural clientele. She wasn’t experienced with it nor did she have a good ***attitude*** about natural hair and working with it. “You have a LOT of hair”, she said looking at the full crop growing on my head. She touched it. “Oh your hair is not…..” She stopped short of her sentence. What do you think she would have finished it with? (rough, dry, crackling, dirty)?
3)Stretch hair before hand. This was essential to me because I wasn’t getting a wash service. I only wanted the cheap trim. Had my hair been fully stretched it would have been easier for the stylist to detangle and trim. She did a light blow out with heat. I held my breath as she figured out that: yes spray it with water FIRST, then use heat.
All in all, I can’t be mad about a decent $15 trim. However, my current stylist clearly lacks experience handling natural hair. She detangles it with the dreaded fine tooth comb…… **4C** THICK, fine, naturally dry partially stretched hair with a fine tooth comb. I cringed, but I didn’t say anything out of fear of being rude. I’m going to go back a 2nd time, but I’ll tell her to lose the fine tooth comb!
Great advice!
I’m currently in Philly and looking for a stylist to do natural hair. Who did you go to while you were here? Thanks in advance!
James Brown Hair! 11th and Pine. He works afros in his sleep.Make an appointment at least 6-8 weeks in advance though. He is always booked.
the small comb when getting braid extentions in is the worst! I always ask if my hair is coming out and they say no. But i’m afraid my version of a lot of hair coming out is different for the braider
There is so much ignorance and hostility in the hairdressing community towards my natural hair texture that I have given up on going to salons. I’d rather spend that money on hair products and time at the spa. I feel way more empowered and relaxed this way.
weird enough, I was thinking about this just today..After 4 years of being natural, I have only gone to the salon once and because of lack of preparation, I had to adjust on the spot…but even after following the advice above, I think I’m way too afraid of offending the stylist.. I’d rather figure out a way to style my hair myself instead of offending someone in their place of work by having to explain something that they studied and prepared for..
This was very detailed lol. I think you kinda have to be this way though. Even if you are relaxed the questions above would still apply. Although unless I was highly allergic to various ingredients I wouldn’t bring my own products. If I’m paying for a service, products are included in the cost. Bringing my own stuff without a percentage off is kinda silly.
I am afraid of someone slipping a chemical into my hair lol. I have that tight 4c hair that has been ripped through with a fine comb. And I went to someone who said they had experience but they really didn’t.
I only go to one person who is specifically a natural stylist so I don’t have to worry about the above problems listed above.
The last time I went to a hair salon – the ‘ladies’ fought over who was going to do my hair … and I had my hair nearly tugged off in the process. NO JOKE. Apparently they had been having a feuding battle over old customers – since one lady said I was her long time customer (took me a while to remember since I haven’t been to a salon in years) so she thought she should do my hair yet I approached the other lady first. Yes, I sat there after my hair was blow fired and in the midst of battle – in the end the hairdresser who had been doing my hair before won. My hair ended up being done in absolute silence, it was super fast and so tight that I had to redo some myself and yes 2 braids popped off with my hair still entwined!
Now, I did receive a plethora of compliments about how the style looked but honestly it was not worth it – I value my hair and myself more. I only have myself to blame, the next time I put extensions in, it will be with my own hands. My experiences have shown me that hair salons are just really not worth it …
When my hair dresser moved away she gave me to my new hair stylist. I happened to choose at that time to go natural. I told him and he said calmly, “ok… sure, let’s do it”. I put my full trust in him and I’m glad I did because I am basically his practice. He hasn’t done black natural hair before and I transitioned, so he had to work with multiple textures. I’m glad that we learned together. If I don’t want a lot cut off my hair I say I want my ends dusted. I don’t say trim unless I’m ok with losing a little more length. Where I go its a Paul Mitchell salon, so I’m in excellent hands.
It is a shame that professional salons still don’t know how to handle natural hair in 2015. They are losing so much business.
It’s not their fault that cosmetology schools usually don’t teach students how to care for natural hair. I only know of two schools (one right outside of Washington, DC) that teaches natural haircare exclusively.
The ones that don’t really teach natural haircare are usually Caucasian owned. A lot of Black women that I know of can do braids, cornrows, etc. but they do not know how to moisturize, comb, wash, and use heat on natural hair sadly.