I’ll be honest; I just started sealing my hair a few months ago. I was always under the impression that sealing “wasn’t for my hair type”. My hair isn’t fine but it also isn’t very thick. I assumed adding butter or oil on top of my leave-in was going to leave me with super flat hair. I’m a volume-holic so this was a no go. And I was right. My hair looked like I had just washed it for the entire week. One day, I was in the kitchen drinking my usual early morning glass of alkaline water. Why do I drink this? Because a lot of the foods/beverages we tend to consume are quite acidic. Drinking alkaline (the opposite of acidic) water keeps my internal pH-balanced. When neutralized, my energy is high and my skin glows.
This got me thinking about the pH of my hair. A lot of us hear about it all the time but don’t really do anything to balance it. With all of the chemicals in our products, it would make sense to want to fix that! I did my research on what would serve as the “alkaline water” for my hair and Aloe Vera popped up. It’s one of the most neutral products you could possibly use on your hair: not too acidic and not too alkaline. I immediately ordered some and started sealing my hair. It was light enough to allow for my usual volume yet effective enough to seal in the moisture of my leave-in. The moisture, shine and definition sealing provides is incomparable. Now? You couldn’t get me to stop sealing if you paid me. The method is encouraged for a reason! What was the lesson? Stop being so quick to say certain techniques “are not for my hair type” and try to find the right products, instead.
When I first started doing my research on how different textures cleansed their hair, I came across tons of videos of naturals washing their hair while in twists. They would detangle and chunky twist their hair before cleansing, for easier manageability. It was new to me because I’ve always just jumped into the shower and detangled with my fingers and some conditioner. But these naturals were on to something. I realized that I was cleansing my hair while it was all tangled and matted up; as opposed to jumping into the shower with already detangled hair and allowing the cleansing agents to more naturally glide down the strands. I mean that makes all the sense in the world! But, once again, I had thought that technique wasn’t for my hair type. Now I finger detangle the night before with a spray bottle of water and some oil or cream, and then jump into the shower with easy breezy hair for a much simpler wash day. Not only does it make it easier to cater to my scalp and save on time but also minimizes breakage! What was the lesson? Stop assuming what won’t work for you and just try it!
All in all, the point is to not be so quick to assume about hair typing and techniques and to not be so resistant to change. This doesn’t only go for your hair and beauty regimens but in life as a whole. You’ll never know what’s for you or not for you until you try it!
What old hair habits have you re-thought?
Fran is the author of HeyFranHey.com. She dispenses hair advice on Black Girl with Long Hair every Monday. Follow her on Twitter @heyfranhey.
78 Responses
I do sometimes deep condition first but shouldn’t we also clean our faces before steaming then apply the mask.
I’m a bit confused as to whether co-washing or washing before deep conditioning is that bad.
I’m not exactly nervous about trying new conditioning treatments so I got the idea of mixing used coffee grounds with my conditioner and SLATHERING it on my hair, rather liberally, then shampooing it out and “semi deep” conditioning, leaving conditioner on while I exfoliate and shave my legs in the shower (5-10 minutes). Will report back with results
How do I treat my transiting hair to natural one.I mean products to use,oil mixture needed.thanks
How do I treat my transiting hair to natural one.I mean products to use,iol mixture needed.thanks
Do you use Aloe Vera Juice or gel to seal your hair? What brand?
I think co-washing/shampooing (to get rid of build up and dirt) with cold water (so the cuticles aren’t opened), then steaming with a Deep Treatment (so that cuticles are opened to absorb nutrients), and then rinsing with cold water will work. You’ll only be opening and closing the cuticle once as well. Plus the nutrients from the Deep Treatment won’t be rinsed out because you won’t be co-washing/shampooing after with warm water.
What I don’t understand is how does the DC penetrate your hair strands and cuticles if you’re DC’ing before you shampoo or co-wash? Isn’t there still build up and dirt that the DC has to get through? That doesn’t sound effective. Plus If you do DC before shampooing/co-washing then when it’s time to shampoo/co-wash aren’t the nutrients from DC’ing being washed out as well? Because you’re rinsing your hair with warm water thus opening the cuticles and releasing the nutrients that the DC provided for your hair strands. And then you close your cuticles with cold water? Leaving your hair with no nutrients. So I don’t get it.
After you apply the Deep Conditioner…you then apply HEAT either using a hooded dryer, steam cap ect. The heat opens up the cuticles of the hair allowing it to penetrate into the hair. Hope this helps.
OMG! This has been my question as well! If you DC with dirt and build-up on your hair, when the cuticles open, won’t that dirt enter the shaft? And then when you co-wash after you’re washing out your DC. I don’t get it either and no one will seem to address it when people pose the question on a blog (><)! I have a steamer so I just co-wash first with warm water so the cuticle is open, then I apply my homemade DC in the shower while the cuticle is still open and then sit under the steamer. When I go back to the shower I rinse with it out with cold water to close the cuticle. So basically my cuticles open and close only once.
I’ve started deep conditioning before co-washing and I love it. My question is, when you deep condition, should you rinse before co washing or deep condition, leave it in for a bit, co wash and then rinse?
Im not sure if anyone asked this question already but wht kinda of aloe Vera do you use and how you use it. I’ve never tried it before s I’m clueless but I’ve learned from reading this that I need to try thing:)
I like this post but some of the things I read and some things I see in blogs and the comment sections just slay me. I won’t knock doing what you believe works for you but please stop spreading pseudoscience like the alkaline water mumbo jumbo. http://www.chem1.com/CQ/ionbunk.html
I have been natural for about 10 years and I love the wave of acceptance, openness, and self love. But I also see a lot of naturals spread and fall victim to pseudoscience and quackery. Being natural, inside and out, is just not that darn complicated. Your body has the amazing ability to adjust and adapt to a variety of things and some of the things I see ppl talking about just are not necessary. Stop obsessing and making things overly complicated. Keep it simple and your hair, mind, and body will be fine.
oh my goodness THIS! i thought the same the same thing when read she drinks alkakine water every morning.
being a pharmaceutical chemist student, i always find it amusing when i read all this pseudoscience on hair blogs and they actually believe what their saying, passing on all these incorrect and misleading messages to the public.
i think people need to think of their hair care the same way they think of having and driving a car. you dont need to know exactly how it works, you just need to know how to care for it enough for it to get you from point A to B.
doing all these things people think is good may end up doing more harm than good to your body in the long run.
just keep it simple and be healthy and let you body to the rest. the body knows how to work efficiently..
Your website is very fantastic, i truly appreciated the report that you wrote, nevertheless it i did will need some far more data since i didnt entirely understand the end.
1.my hair is so soft it falls apart no matter what i do. and it tangles so easily. i live in nigeria and our stylists are so clueless. i don not know wat to do.
2.it grows fast but it never stays so it feels like ive had thesame lenght for years.
3.and finally there is a section at the back of my head that is so soft it feels like its not mine. people say its because i sleep face up this section isnt growing. is this true?
Hello Anne.
Please use henna. I live in Nigeria also, but I was able to order for henna. It strengthens each strand of your hair, therefore your hair would be strengthened but still soft.
I learnt sleeping on a particular side inhibits hair growth on that side.
Please don’t forget to seal your ends religiously and tuck in your ends.. I learnt, from an article, that the best way to effectively seal up is this: apply a thick oil like castor oil, or any butter, such as Shea butter; then for each twist that’s been sealed, wrap the end round a bobby pin (those black, flat hair pins) and clip it on your hair. Leave it that way till it dries.
Cheers
Hey Julia,
Thanks for sharing. You seem to know a lot about natural haircare. I live in Nigeria too and honestly, most stylists here are TOTALLY CLUELESS about natural haircare. I would like to get in touch with you as i’m just groping in the dark re:natural haircare. Other than honey, olive oil & shea butter, i’m clueless. And my hairline hasnt improved at all which is why i went natural in the first place. Please help!
Hello Ama.
You can shoot me a mail on Ju**********@***il.com.
Cheers.
That was fast! Thanks Julia. Done…
what is a co-wash?
It’s short for conditioner-wash. It’s the process of eliminating shampoo to cleanse your hair and using conditioner instead.
An old habit I’m working on: I don’t mess with my hair as much.
I almost always wear my hair in double strand twists and I have a tendency to take down bits of it and re-twist so it’s neater (to me, no one else even notices … but I can tell the difference in feel and look). So … to combat my hand-in-hair syndrome when I come home I put on my bonnet and that completely prevents me from fiddling with my hair!
(best thing for me is I thought of it all on my own lol … not that no one else hasn’t probably ever thought of it before me! :D)
Hey Fran! I want to first thank you for sharing your knowledge with us all. Question, what conditioner do you use to co-wash after your DC?
My absolute pleasure! My favorite conditioners are the Raw Shea Butter Restorative by Shea Moisture or the White Camellia by Aubrey Organics. When I’m in need of a protein boost for dull, overworked hair I use the GPB by Aubrey Organics.
I started dc as a pre poo & time saver. Now that I no longer use shampoo @ home, I still find my do treatments far more effective on DRY hair; as the treatment is more likely to absorb (oil&water don’t mix.)
On the rare occasion I treat myself to a salon visit I still apply my dc just before leaving w a plastic cap and beanie. By the time they shampoo, my hair has absorbed the nutrients saving me time and money:)
Great article…
Is it just me? I get the other stuff bbut i don’t get why it’s better to deep condition before you shampoo…
Hey, Sheree! I’d be happy to explain what I meant. When you cleanse your hair with warm water you’re lifting the cuticle. When you follow up with a cold rinse you’re then closing the cuticle. You then re-open it once again to deep condition with heat to then close it yet again to rinse it out. But the method I mentioned in the article has you lifting the cuticle when deep conditioning and then simply closing it by cleansing afterwards. You’re essentially cutting down on how often you’re opening and closing the cuticles during wash day, which is important for maintaining the strength of your hair strands. Hope that helps.
Hello Fran.
I’m intrigued by this method, as I’ve never considered it as an option.
My question is this:
If it’s only about not opening and closing cuticles twice, then would my previous method of shampooing and rinsing with warm water only, DCing after that, and then rinsing it out with cold water, work, or are there other benefits?
Thanks.
Hey, Julia! Like I stated in the article, there’s no right or wrong way! Both are extremely effective methods of haircare. The only reason I suggest the method is because a lot of us suffer from breakage and weak, damaged hair. If opening and closing the cuticle can be minimized then it’s a good option to try since our goal as naturals is to manipulate our strands as little as possible. It doesn’t mean your way is wrong it just means try this way and see if your hair likes it better!
I’ll definitely try it next time.
Thanks
This article gets 5 stars!
Hmm. I’ll try the dc and detangling techniques…but this low porous hair needs warm water to open it up for the dc. No steamer here!
Could you rinse out your hair with warm water before you apply your dc? You know the sideways rinse? I am going to try this method for the next few weeks and see how I like it. If I have gel in my hair, I will rinse it out first.
Well, of course I’ll wash with warm water before applying dc. That’s how low porous hair works – open up the cuticle, then apply moisture. Otherwise it’ll sit on top of the strands. If you have gel in your hair that isn’t water soluble, you need to shampoo that out.
I know, I have low porosity hair as well so I invested in a steamer. I was just wondering if you could rinse out your hair in the sink so you can DC before a full wash. You rinse out the gel, using a t-shirt/microfiber towel to get out the water and slap on the DC. I use aloe vera gel or mainly natural ingredients so I didn’t think about non-water soluble products.
Sounds like a good plan.
+1 On the low porosity!!!!
I personally deep condition my hair under a steamer while in a bun. But it doesn’t matter the style your hair is in as long as your strands are fully saturated with the DC, especially those ends! I usually leave mine in for a good 25-30 min. From my understanding of hair and deep conditioning, you don’t need to leave it in for any longer than 20 min for it to get the job done. Hope that helps!
Thanks. That helped a lot!
Hey Fran,
I use aubrey Organics GPB and Honey Suckle Rose conditoners as my ‘deep conditioners and I was just wondering: do you deep condition your hair while in twists and also I know for these conditioners the directions has for deep treatment about thirty minutes, so do you leave your conditioner in for the time stated on the bottle or longer?
Hi Fran
Are you sealing with aloe vera juice or aloe vera oil/butter. I’m a bit confused I don’t see how you can seal your hair with aloe vera juice.
I DC, detangle then cleanse my hair with diluted black soap or shampoo. I agree it works better and saves me more time as well.
Nats.
Hey. Not sure if you think i’m referring to the juice sold in stores for drinking? The one I use is the pure aloe vera juice and it’s actually incredible for sealing. It’s super light weight, great for those who like volume, and it blends well with almost every product. Super effective on all hair types. I use the Aubrey Organics brand sold on amazon.
I have been experiencing “dry scalp” in the past two weeks and this article proves very helpful. I have naturally curly hair and usually wear the curly look daily while using a leave-in conditioner and detangling after showering. I am excited to try the chunky twist process tonight!
I’ve noticed my “dry scalp” has practically disappeared with the use of all natural cleansers and moisturizers. Keep us posted on how the chunky twists work out for you 🙂
If you steam & deep condition, then wash…wouldn’t you just be washing all of the deep conditioner that penetrated your hair out?
If it penetrated, instead of just coating, then it wouldn’t be washed out.
Exactly!
I love this article and sealing with aloe vera is very interesting.
Hi Fran, I LOVE this article and I really want to try your deep conditioner tips, but I’m a bit confused. So do you mean you now apply your DC to dry, “dirty” hair, and THEN wash it out in the shower? When do you detangle?
Thank you lovely 🙂
Hey 🙂 That’s exactly it. I detangle my hair the night before with an oil or cream combined with the spray bottle. The following morning I deep condition/steam, then co-wash it all out!
Ah I see! Thanks! I’m trying this out with my next wash this weekend 🙂
I have to try this, but I’ll use my terressentials wash instead of a co-wash conditioner. I have been steaming with oils, washing, then deep conditioning with a DC. I will combine the oil and conditioner step in the beginning, except when I henna or do a protein treatment. On those days, I need to deep condition afterwards.
Actually, I do both. I deep condition before my co-wash with honey and olive oil, I co wash. And the next morning I deep condition again with honey olive oil and sometimes I add my conditioner. Don’t ask why I’m doing this twice, I just ended up realizing I was doing this twice.
lol
I had to rethink finger detangling in the shower. I’d been doing it for years, but I was always upset with how much hair would be in the drain after every wash. I recently (about three months now), started doing the same as Fran, finger detangling the night before with coconut oil and lots of patience, putting a cap on and going to bed. I then wash it all out the next morning. A final detangle with a super wide tooth comb has also done wonders for tangle prevention. I only have about ten strands coming out a wash (natural shedding) now and my hair is much fuller and happier.
I;ve also noticed that my hair has gotten fuller with (over a year of) finger-detangling. I must have been really pulling my hair out with all that combing and brushing (shower comb + modified ‘Denman’) *shudders* .
Great article! I have as of late, been in the process of restructuring my hair routine after letting things go a bit after having my second child. One HUGE realization I had was washing my hair in sections. A total must for me now that my hair has gained length. I don’t wash in twists exactly, but my hair is sectioned, twisted and pinned to my head with a duckbill clip. I take down a section, cleanse (hair and scalp), twist back up and pin again. Repeat. My hair is usually in 6-8 twists. I also had started detangling before washing, as well.
These changes have made my routine a lot easier and quicker (which I need with an 8 month old and a 3.5 yr. old!). Now I am excited to try deep conditioning before a wash…never thought to do that!
This article is sooo timely!!! I JUST posted an article on my blog – http://www.thelazynatural.com/2012/01/back-to-basics.html last night! I stopped sealing my ends over 6 months ago thinking it was a waste of time! My ends are ragged, thinning, I have tons of single strand knots and my growth is stagnant! I had to dust of my shea butter again! Didn’t have these problems when I was sealing with shea butter…ha! And the learning curve continues…
I am a veteran natural. A lot of the things people are doing now simply weren’t around when I first started out.
Considering that, like the record industry, the “traditional” hair care industry is still playing catch-up, I truly appreciate all the innovative research and documentation naturals have done over the years to educate everybody. I always tell new naturals that if their longtime stylist won’t or can’t help them, go to the Internet.
Also, most veteran naturals I know are only barely aware of the natural hair community online. Whatever new things they’re learning, they’re getting either from younger relatives or from stylists who are educating themselves through the Internet.
So with all that said: I prefer to think of my regimen as having come full circle, so to speak. Certain things — most notably, manipulating as little as possible — were around when I first started. Other things — such as co-washing and detailed fingercombing — came thanks to learning from others’ experiments. It’s all good!
+1. I’ve learned more about natural hair in the last 5 years than I did in the first 10.
+1…Great article too!
That statement: “most veteran naturals I know are only barely aware of the natural hair community online.” is SO true for me too! I know I did not know about the natural hair community until maybe 1-2 months ago and since then I’ve become OBSESSED with natural and curly hair. I’ve been natural for 10-11 years, have had locs, twists, afros & every natural style in between.
Since becoming knowledgable of the natural hair community online I’ve changed EVERYTHING.
I’ve added oil to my hair care regimen (after having locs for a few years I was reticent to use oil), altered HOW I comb my hair (before I wouldn’t always do from end to root but I know to detangle the same way I combed out my locs from the end down), shampoo less (though I’ve never really shampoo’d a lot), and now I’m always super excited about hair since I have a WHOLE community of people equally (and sometimes more) into natural hair as me! I LOVE that!
i just thought i didnt need to detangle, so during the recent holiday season, i stopped and washed and go, then i decided to do flat twists and it was soo difficult, and didnt turn out well, so next day i detangled and it was a world of difference, lesson learned, detangling makes it shiny and manageable, and just because my hair is not very kinky and more s, i still need to detangle before every twist out, huge moment.
Step 1 sounds like a co-wash…well a deep cowash. If that is the case, when does the author shampoo…once week/month/not anymore?
And a deep treatment is something my hair can’t live without! I usually DC with a protein, like the GPB by Aubrey Organics, once a week and then follow up with an all natural co-wash and cold rinse. I haven’t used shampoo in over a year.
Sorry I’m a bit confused (I’m probably missing something), but how do you remove build-up without shampoo? I know conditioner also has cleansing agents, so do you find the conditioner is enough to cleanse your hair and shampoo isn’t needed?
I only use really rich all natural conditioners loaded with tons of nutrients. All of that combined with the cleansing agents def gets the job done! The conditioner allows my hair and scalp to retain more moisture, creating better overall circulation. I’ve actually had less buildup on my scalp since removing shampoo from my regimen (since shampoo is so stripping).
interesting, might give it a try too. thanks for that! 🙂
+1
@Fran or anyone else who could answer my question
To be honest, I’ve read the deep conditioning section like 3-4 times and I still don’t understand how one does a deep conditioning. I’ve never done it before and I have been natural all my life, I’m now 23. I’ve been looking for a lot of answers in regards to my hair because washing and shampooing has seriously not been helping as much as it should, but that’s all I’ve ever known. I’ve found a lot of answers on this website but I don’t really understand the deep conditioning, steaming, co washing and stuff like that. I guess my question is, using your method of deep conditioning, how exactly is it done in steps? Also, how do I steam my hair without a steamer or whatever equipment that is required. Finally, how does one do an effective co-washing and how can I make my own shampoo or conditioner.
I know this may be loaded with questions, but even a direction to a website or page that answers my questions would be helpful.
Thanks
Hello Hynez.
Wanted to reply you earlier, but then…
To your questions:
I deep condition with whatever I have available. I was using Aubery Organic Honeysuckle rose conditioner (popularly known as AOHSR) with some oils before I misplaced it.
Now, I use Shea moisture deep treatment (I live in Nigeria, but I got someone to get it for me at Target for $10) mixed with some oils like tea tree oil, rosemary oil, coconut oil, olive oil, grapeseed oil or whatever oil I feel like adding at the time. If I have avocado or banana I blend them together add some oils and apply to my hair. Since I don’t have a steamer or a hood dryer, I pour hot water on a towel, place a bag and shower cap on my hair, and then wrap it with the “steaming” towel.
I live it for about an hour or till I know there’s no heat trapped in the cap. I then rinse out my hair with cold water, and then end with an apple cider vinegar (ACV) rinse.
What Fran is suggesting (I hope to try it only when I’m not doing a protein treatment like henna, because you must DC after a protein treatment) is that it’s best to DC and steam first, after which she would shampoo with warm water, rinse with cold water or an ACV rinse and then apply a leave in conditioner. I would be trying her method.
Cowash means washing the hair with conditioner. People do this to avoid the stripping effect of shampoos. You can add baking soda to the conditioner you want to use, and ensure the conditioner has lots of slip. At the end rinse with diluted ACV. This is the basic no-pop method used by those who do not shampoo at all.
You can blend avocado and banana with some oils, and refrigerate. You can use this as your home-made conditioner.
Please don’t forget your protein treatments, to strengthen your hair strands.
Wish you the best.
Hi Julia!
Thank you so much for replying to my post. I kept checking to see if anyone replied because I was so lost. lol. You definitely provided me with a lot of great info. I’m definitely going to try adding the avocado and banana.
Again, thanks so much it was much appreciated.
You’re welcome.
If you have any other questions, I could assist you with the answer or a link. Do let me know how it turns out.
Ps: you can use V05 for co-washing (cheap and lots of slip) if you’re swinging that way.
I made an error, it’s “no-poo method, and not “no-pop method”
Old hair habits, I’ve rethought: sealing your ends with vasoline. It works better than any butter, cream or shea butter mix I’ve made!
The other is the power of the simple shower comb. I have come full circle. I left it to try all these other fancy detangling combs and realized for my hair, nothing beats my $1 shower comb.
I am also back to making my own conditioners again and not buying the store bought ones.
I could go on. Great article and great message!
OOOOOOOOh the shower comb, it’s my best friend!!!!!!
Damn, this is a good article! I have to admit I feel like my current regimen is the best I’ve ever had, using only ayurvedic herbs and coconut milk to cleanse my hair and scalp and rinsing with ACV+honey and cold water afterwards. Still I try to make little changes every now and then, though when I do, it’s usually an affirmation that my hair hates shampoo or other harsh cleansers. Still I keep looking out for new steps I can add or leave out for that possible life-changing moment, maybe it’s alkaline water? Never heard of that before, btw 🙂
As far as old habits are concerned, have you got a minute? There are too many to look back to.. I used to be very guilty of the following: infrequent washing, ‘moisturizing’ with Pink Oil lotion or Vaseline, scratching my scalp all the time, combing dirty hair, never getting my hair trimmed, never conditioning my hair, drying it out with harsh shampoos to fix my dandruff problem and no detangling whatsoever. So yeah, I’d like to think I’ve come a long way…
Hello.
Are you saying that when I take off my weaves, I shouldn’t comb it, since it would have been dirty?
Please what do you suggest I do?
Thanks.
I ABSOLUTELY agree with everything mentioned in this article! It took me a year (I don’t know why) to implement sealing my hair into my routine, but it did and no one can’t stop me now, lol. Ever since I started rinsing my conditioner out of my hair while in twists, it’s evolved to shampooing and conditioning my hair in twists as well.
This SERIOUSLY has made a difference in how much I have to detangle – which is never…well I won’t say I NEVER detangle, but I have noticed that I don’t spend nearly an hour detangling my hair in the shower…in fact I don’t even have an actual “detangling session” anymore. Preparing your hair for whatever style, while in twists makes a world of a difference and I think it’s somewhat (but for the most part) necessary as your hair gets longer. I noticed I started cleansing & conditioning my hair while in twists at the beginning of my second year being natural out of convenience, though now it’s mandatory, lol.
Regarding the deep conditioning before shampooing, initially I was thinking, “Well that’s…a bit interesting, why would I do that?” then after reading futher it makes more sense! Plus I just remembered that I used to do this when I started out. I would deep condition with Aubrey Organics Honey Suckle Rose conditioner overnight, and in the moring my hair would feel REDICULOUSLYy soft. No joke, lol. Sooo I think I’ll give this a shot once I’m done with my protective style. 🙂