by
Chinwe
Not too long ago, I wrote a post on how to reduce breakage and retain length this summer from the standpoint of protecting one’s hair from the sun, chlorine, etc. Well, now I want to talk more about maximizing your length retention and from the standpoint of manipulation and moisture this season. If you are all about keeping those few inches before autumn arrives, then read on:
1. If you are washing/co-washing more often, don’t sleep on the pre-poo
Some of us tend to wash or co-wash our hair more frequently during this time of year. If that is the case for you, don’t skip the pre-poo step. Why? Well, our hair strands undergo manipulation and some protein loss each time we wash. Just think about all the touching you do to your hair on co-wash/wash day. What is less of an issue but still relevant is that gradual damage can also occur as our strands swell and de-swell upon the penetration and evaporation of water during the wash routine. (As some of you probably already know by now, this is called hygral fatigue.) If you go from washing once every few weeks to two times a week, you are potentially speeding up that damage. However, pre-pooing with certain penetrating oils, such as coconut, can mitigate that issue as well as reduce any protein loss you may incur during the remainder of your wash routine.
2. Stick with staple styles that worked during the other seasons
Summer can be a time to experiment with color, bleach, heat, loose styles, etc., but if you want to maximize your length retention during this period, stick with what you know. It may sound boring, but no pain, no gain, right? I find that I get the least length retention (if any at all) during summers in which I veer off of what has worked for me. If buns were your thing in the spring, keep them as your thing in the summer. If braids worked for you during the winter, then stick with them. If you want to maximize your length retention this summer, you’ve got to sacrifice or, at the very least, limit your experimentation.
3. If you are experiencing a humid summer, befriend humectants
Though humectants (e.g., glycerin, aloe vera juice) are bad for if you want to avoid frizz, they are great for when you want to absorb moisture. That leads you to make this decision: Do you want to avoid frizz or do you want get as much moisture as possible from the humid air? Remember that moisture is a natural’s best friend because it translates into soft, supple, flexible strands that are less likely to break. Check out Jc’s earlier article on how glycerin can help to strengthen your hair: “4 Scientifically Proven Ways to Get Stronger Hair”.
NOTE: Frizz can lead to tangles and knots in high-shrinkage hair that is worn in loose stretched styles, so consider going the protective route when using humectants.
4. If you are experiencing a dry summer, keep a spray bottle on deck
Even though you were able to go days or a week without re-moisturizing your hair, dry summer heat may have totally changed the game for you. You may find yourself slapping on moisture every time you walk to a water source! Well, don’t be afraid to keep a spray bottle filled with water (and oils, if you wish) in your purse so that you can whip it out when needed. Again, moisture is a natural’s best friend because it translates into soft, supple, flexible strands that are less likely to break. Check out Christina’s earlier article for more tips in the dry heat: “4 Essential Tips for Keeping Natural Hair Moisturized in Dry Heat”.
Ladies, how are you maximizing your length retention this summer?
20 Responses
I’m not really doing anything to maximize length retention. I’ve been doing wngs, wet buns and twists. I like to shampoo 1-2 times a week (also cowash w/cleansing conditioners). My 6yo has waist length hair which I cut back frim hip length. I’m doing wng puffs w/her hair bc I want to give her a break, as well, and have cut back on her shampooing to twice a month.
Great article. I tend to like to experiment during the summer. I haven’t determined if my wash and go “phase”is damaging or not during these months but I will find out soon!
I’m not really in for any length retention style. Just enjoying my hair twa 2 inches hair from my BC 3 months ago. I’m still learning my my hair. I’m aiming for healthy hair.
I’ve just realized that my hair is finally APL and can make a decent bun, so I decided that this summer, not in school, I was going to keep my hair stretched and loosely bunned for maximum length retention. Before I started the regimen, I bleached the front of my hair, that way if I experienced breakage I do so before getting too attached to my new found length.
The true question is : Is summer the period to retain lenght ? My point is that “lenght retention” is this gigantic concept over our heads that makes the nappy journey so painful at times especially for 4B/4C hair.
I live in Martinique, a French Caribbean island…we go to the beach pretty much all year long but Summer (even if we don’t have summer per say) is a period where we can rest, enjoy parties, see cousins living in France or other parts of the world…and the last thing we want to do is to be stressed/focused on projective styles, lenght rétention etc. We just want to enjoy ourselves, our hair etc without overthinking it. It grows, fine. It doesn’t, is it so bad ?
Somehow I feel “lenght rétention” has become the new norm to replace straight hair…why do black women relax their hair ? it is not only to have so-called “manageable hair” but it’s also to fight skrinkage and have long hair. So having this purpose when you have natural hair is a bit repeating the same errors. We should enjoy our hair just as it is and not be natural only to have LONG natural hair…what I want is a good-looking, sexy-styled, healthy hair I don’t care if it is long or not.
I am tired of the pressure of lenght rétention…to see vloggers doing lenght check, having special lenght check shirts…but then they live under wigs, weaves and other projective styles 24/7 and don’t get to enjoy, feel, touch their hair. What’s the point ?
I hear you to an extent, which is why I’ve taken a “break” on length retention this summer. (I’m six years natural and spent most of that time protective styling on a length retention journey.) However, there are some naturals for whom this is really important, especially those starting out or simply wanting to see just how long their hair can grow.
I don’t think length retention has become the new norm to replace straight/relaxed hair. There are some of us who’ve had short, thinning, relaxed hair all our lives and seeing the lengths that our natural hair can reach:
1. Proves to ourselves that black hair can grow.
2. Allows us a change in versatility and length from what we’ve been wearing (i.e., thin, short, breaking relaxed hair).
3. Inspires other black women who never thought it possible.
Everyone is on this natural journey for different reasons that also change in time, and length retention could be one of them. I don’t frown upon that especially since I was once there. Twenty or so years with thin relaxed hair that never passed my collarbone was enough.
:o)
I do agree with you that people go on this journey for different reasons and that is ok, we are humans and we are individuals and we are unique in so many ways,
But do we really HAVE to PROVE that our hair can grow? Prove to who and why?
I for one know that my hair grows, and if other people doubt that then i really think that is their problem not mine. Basic science proved it long before i was born so i really do not have to prove it to anyone including myself.
Hi Kitso. Quoting myself from earlier: “Prove to ourselves ..”.
Just from my personal experience, I’ve had short relaxed hair most of my life and got tired of the same short hair. I honestly started to believe that my hair just could not retain length beyond collarbone, especially since my hair is 4c. This was until I saw Sera252 and Kemi21 (4c long-haired naturals on Fotki at the time). When I saw that they could do it, I set to show myself that I could do it too. (About science: the research out there mostly shows our hair as prone to breakage and slow growth compared to other races. Had I relied on “science”, I wouldn’t have set the personal goal of retaining length.)
More importantly, I find that long natural kinky hair is so versatile. (In my opinion, long straight/relaxed hair has nothing on long natural hair.) As I’ve gone through this journey, I’ve enjoyed seeing just how long my hair can grow as well as just how versatile it can be. If I feel like wearing “short” hair today, I just wet it and let it shrink up in all its glory. If I feel like wearing “long” hair tomorrow, I just flat iron it. If I feel like wearing “medium-length” hair another day, I just rock a braid out or twist out. My relaxed hair never afforded me that versatility nor did my hair at the TWA stage. (I will say, though, that my TWA was far more fun to wear that those short, thin, relaxed strands … and this was an unexpected byproduct of big chopping.)
So I can understand why some set their goal for length retention. I’m not for an unhealthy obsession with it – e.g., doing a length check everyday – but to have it as a goal like any other goal .. I see no problem with that.
:o)
Finally Elodie, someone who feels like I do. Length retention and curls have become the new relaxers. I lived under wigs and braids while transitioning and in April I just couldn’t take it any more and just started wearing my hair. I don’t know why there is such an obsession with these two things but that’s all you see in the blogs. On the websites you see them glorifying sisters who rock short, faded or tapered cuts, just long, curly hair. The discussion is always about how to get it, keep it long and/or curly. What is the point if you can’t comb, touch or enjoy it?
I actually wrote some posts on this curl obsession as well on another article…Funny! The blogosphere always writes on tips to have long hair, curly hair, “5 ways to regain long hair”, “10 ways to curl hair with tools”…how about ” 10 ways to be pretty with natural hair” or 7 tips to enjoy your nappy hair with no pressure”…On my island, I never heard of any conversation about “defining curls”…no offense but I believe it’s a North-american thing and I find difficult to understand it.
I bigchopped in February and I -unfortunately- experimented a huge loss because of an alopecia post-partum. Besides I am a 4C low-density hair…believe it or not…I don’t wear any kind of wigs, braid box to hide my naked edges or anything I still love my hair just like that. Of course, I wish to recover from the alopecia and have long hair one day but…on time. I just don’t want to feel “weird” or excluded because my hair is not long or curly…and to feel I am in akward stage…why would short/mid lenght hair would be an akward stage when there are so many hairstyles you can achieve with that…
Thank you Mary. I really believe we have a debate to rise on that topic.
What you say is totally true about the french caribbean but let me highlight something about the hair in your island, there are many girls who are naturals but do not have beautiful hair cause in fact they dont care enough about their hair, and there are many girls who are relaxed even if it is still a bit curly it is not totally natural. Even if there are beautiful curly girls with very long hair who do not do much stuff. The US History about hair is different than in the caribbean island and than in France where we do not put much weaves or just for a range of people. It is true that bloggers are often talking about length check and protective styling this could be a bit overwhelming but it depends on your hair type and the weather of your city, if you have type 4C and live in North of France you cant wear your afro 24/7 its gonna break a lot… I live in Paris and my hair is always much better when I am in the Caribbean or somewhere where the weather is pretty humid.
I agree with Elodie. I am French too and I live in Paris.
I have come to the conclusion that French Naturelles do not have the same focusses as US naturals.
None of us is interested in defining curls ; Andre Walker hair typing is just a tool to help to recognize a naturelle sister to refer to ; and the one among us who has long hair just has long hair (and she is Lucky).
Maybe this relates to cultural différences, but I feel like US naturals put a lot of strain on themselves. This can lead them to consider summer time as another period to make some effort in order to get an inch or 2 in the hair, instead of enjoying life while providing proper care to their body and soul.
Please, my natural cousins from the other side of the Atlantic, allow yourselves to rest. And allow yourself to enjoy life. Take care.
My response has a typo. I mean to say you don’t see them glorifying sisters with short, faded or tapered cuts. Mostly the same old twist outs that everyone does.
I agree completely that curl definition, fro size, low shrinkage and obsessions with length and length retention have replaced long straight hair as the way for naturals to be. The most popular youtubers have those journeys that seem smooth and show great progression in this department or have low shrinkage therefore show their length.
Happily, I think the obsession with length is now shared with an interest in having a cute cut that fits the face and lifestyle of the modern natural. I’m grateful for that as it removes the pressure of having to have that perfect journey plus newer naturals can see that there are diverse ways to wear our hair. The more diversity we express, the less likely people are to step award from being natural. I recently got a cut as I was fed up with that length that isn’t awkward, isn’t a TWA, isn’t long or short. The shorter cuts and tapers allow you to appreciate your hair beyond it being a vehicle to show what our hair is capable of. Some women use their hair as a growing competition and some people just want health and style.
WELL THATS YOUR CHOICE WHY ARE YOU ON A HAIR BLOG? BLACK WOMEN ARENT THE ONLY RACE THAT LIKE LONG HAIR… AND I THINK THAT ALOT OF BLACK WOMEN LIKE MYSELF ALWAYS THOUGHT MY HAIR WOULD ONLY GROW TO A CERTAIN LENGTH. BUT THE TRUTH IS I DIDNT KNOW HOW TO PROPERLY MAINTAIN MY HAIR. LONG HAIR IS NOT YOUR GOAL.
I’ve been wearing marley twists of different sizes for the past several months (thank God for reusable hair) and I just can’t take it anymore! Any protective style suggestions for a 4c long term transitioner (19 months and counting!) who works out every day?
Hey. Definitely check out the natural hair styles section we have here on BGLH. There are a lot of protective style ideas there.
:o)
I liked the article i really needed thoes tips to regain the inches i lost due to breakage .
Wish me luck i’m just 1 year natural and still experimnting . I’m from saudi arabia and here there is not enough products for natural hair and not enough natural haired ladies so i’m totally alone with no support
Congratulations on making one year natural! You’ll do just fine with the right online resources.
:o)
U should try and order products online curlmart is having a huge sale on hair products